Finally going to delve into a big boy grinder
- Thread starter wall e
- Start date
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm. I'd like to hear other people's thoughts on that hidden spring.
If it has enough spring tension to make the belt track, it's going to be a bear to compress it by just pushing down on the post. It really needs a pivot arm so you can get some leverage on it. Keep in mind your arm is going to fully extended out in front of you when you're trying to push down on it. Maybe I'm wrong.
If it has enough spring tension to make the belt track, it's going to be a bear to compress it by just pushing down on the post. It really needs a pivot arm so you can get some leverage on it. Keep in mind your arm is going to fully extended out in front of you when you're trying to push down on it. Maybe I'm wrong.
Navin_R_Johnson
Active Member
Agreed, it's gonna be a bear to compress. Not only a lack of leverage but it's going to be far back from the front of the work bench and hard to reach.
I thought about doing something similar for my next build but also adding some linkage for a foot pedal release. Not sure it's worth the hassle yet.
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
I watched his youtube video. He was able to change belts rather easily because the grinder is on the corner of his bench where he can walk up directly beside it. I think if you added a compression lever like in your drawing it should work pretty well. I guess you'll just to to try it and see.
It works just fine.
40# spring is right, I tried a 30# and 35# but I like a tight belt. Just resting your hand with moderate pressure on the tracking arm lets you roll the belt right off, The handle that was originally on it was awkward to use. I created the grinder out of junk just laying around the yard and was up and running by dinner time. The 2" wheel was a spare platen wheel and has since been replaced with a real one, you use what you got. First time I've actually seen the 'inside' spring idea since I built this around 5 years ago.
Rudy
Edit...McMaster has the die springs in different lengths and sizes to fit inside the square tube.
40# spring is right, I tried a 30# and 35# but I like a tight belt. Just resting your hand with moderate pressure on the tracking arm lets you roll the belt right off, The handle that was originally on it was awkward to use. I created the grinder out of junk just laying around the yard and was up and running by dinner time. The 2" wheel was a spare platen wheel and has since been replaced with a real one, you use what you got. First time I've actually seen the 'inside' spring idea since I built this around 5 years ago.
Rudy
Edit...McMaster has the die springs in different lengths and sizes to fit inside the square tube.
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John Wilson
Well-Known Member
That's good to hear, Rudy. I may build one of these for a second grinder. If you hadn't gone with the three speed pulley setup, would you direct drive it like the drawing?
John,
In this particular case, no because everything I used was scavenged and the C channel body only allowed for using the pulleys. IF I made another one I'd still be using scavenged parts so who knows what I'd wind up with. I didn't really follow a plan, it was made on the fly to meet an immediate need. I have 3 other grinders.
That particular drawing above looks like a nice workable design with minimum technological requirements. Just like mine...a weld here and there and you're on your way.
Rudy
In this particular case, no because everything I used was scavenged and the C channel body only allowed for using the pulleys. IF I made another one I'd still be using scavenged parts so who knows what I'd wind up with. I didn't really follow a plan, it was made on the fly to meet an immediate need. I have 3 other grinders.
That particular drawing above looks like a nice workable design with minimum technological requirements. Just like mine...a weld here and there and you're on your way.
Rudy
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wall e
Well-Known Member
why not just ad another post on the back with an arm to compress the spring for changing belts
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If doing a direct drive the motor mount could be made thick enough and have a pivot hole in it and use a piece of .25 flat bar with either a pipe welded on it or a .25 bolt through the pipe so it rolls of sorts.