A new Folder for ME

EdCaffreyMS

EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
I've been without a folder for EDC since I sold the last one out of my pocket....so I thought it was time that I had another one to carry.

A while back I had a batch of 13C26 blades waterjet cut, and with that run I had a few "flipper" blades cut....so it was just a matter of getting all the other parts done.

This is also the first folder that I have tried using coarse peel G10 on....different stuff to work with.

So here's the rundown:

Blade: 13C26
Liners: .061 6AL4V Titainum
Pivot: 1/8" barrel with bronze bushing
Screws: 2-56 Torx throughout

This one is so ugly... maybe I can keep it in my pocket for a while! :)
A word of advice...when someone asks "What are you carrying in your pocket?" Don't show them, unless your willing to sell it to them! :)

2010EdsFlipper1.jpg


2010EdsFlipper5.jpg


2010EdsFlipper4.jpg


2010EdsFlipper3.jpg


2010EdsFlipper2.jpg
 
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I'm gona give it a try as my EDC....we'll see how this 13C26 holds up. I've used enough of it now, that I know it fairly well. I've come to the conclusion that it's a steel that must be cryo-treated to get the most out of.

I think the next batch of stainless is going to be CPM154....I have a couple of Steve Kelly's knives made of it, and am pretty pleased with the way they hold up (although sharpening is still a bear compared to carbon/tool steels) But don't tell Steve I said that! :nothing:
 
I like it a lot. I doubt you are going to have that in your pocket for very long. The slight contrast between the liner steel and the back spacer is nice and the slim profile makes it look like it will ride comfortably.

Nice Job. Very impressive.
 
Ed, Nice Knife and unique design, I like the texture of the scales and that you put scales on both sides (no framelock). Dan
 
Ed,
I realy like that, thanks for showing it. I've been making slipjoints but am ready to try my hand at liner locks, I like the flipper style better than the thumb stud style. Where did you get that G-10? Ive never seen that before and I like the look. What was so difficult about working with it?
 
I don't think it is ugly either. I think it looks like a great knife for EDC.
 
Cal,

The G10 is Coarse Peel Black, from Masecraft Supply. I wound up purchasing it, and a piece of medium peel orange in order to fill out a $50 minimum order. I comes with a "sheet" of material on one side....the top is smooth, and the side next to the G10 is textured. You have to rethink how you work/finish down handles, because in order to expose the texture you have to peel off the "sheet".
 
um...yeah,that's a pretty darned ugly knife Ed...
in fact,your pocket might not be too comfortable being seen in public with
that thing riding in it...
I'd be willing to take it out in the back 40 and put it to rest for you...:3:
 
Ed,
Can you explain what makes a flipper flip? I've never seen one in person nor have I held or operated one, I know you are supposed to pull the trigger and the blade flips to the open(But it is not an assisted open) position but can you explain what is diferent on the inside from an everyday liner lock? I know the stop pin is in a diferent position and there is a slot in the tang that rides around the pin to the two stop positions but what gives the blade the kick to make it flip all the way to the open position? The diference has to be with the detent ball and how it is held in the detent position.
 
Calvin I hate to see you hanging on this so I will try to give you a rundown on how it works and maybe Ed will chime in here and give you some more details. I have never made one of these but I have spoke with some other makers about them and I have a few that I have spent to much time flicking. Basically you are on the right track with the detent ball. The ball and the detent hole are lined up with a flipper instead of slightly off set. This provides the resistance for the flipper trigger which is pushed. The trigger is part of the blade which protrudes thought the back of the liner/frame, note the point sticking up in photo below. When this is pushed hard enough the detent breaks free and the blade flies open to the locked position. Hope that helps.

Eric

2010EdsFlipper5.jpg
 
Thanks for explaining it Eric! Cal....I apologize, I've not come back to this thread in a while. Eric explained it very well. What makes a flipper "fire" is the amount of tension the lockbar exerts on the detent in the closed position. Finger pressure on the blade "stud" overcomes the lock pressure suddenly, and the blade flies open.....this particular knife doesn't "fire" as well as some would like it to...it requires a little wrist action to help it. That's mostly due to the type of pivot system I used, it's a standard barrel pivot with a bushing in the blade and washers. Personally, I think the IKBS is best suited for flippers because you can literally clamp the blade between the bearings, which means that you can add tension to the lockbar without throwing the blade our of line....with a traditional barrel pivot, there's only so much tension you can build into the lockbar before the blade rides against the opposite liner in the closed position.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
Finger pressure on the blade "stud" overcomes the lock pressure suddenly, and the blade flies open.....this particular knife doesn't "fire" as well as some would like it to...it requires a little wrist action to help it. That's mostly due to the type of pivot system I used, it's a standard barrel pivot with a bushing in the blade and washers. Personally, I think the IKBS is best suited for flippers because you can literally clamp the blade between the bearings, which means that you can add tension to the lockbar without throwing the blade our of line....with a traditional barrel pivot, there's only so much tension you can build into the lockbar before the blade rides against the opposite liner in the closed position.
Click to expand...

ED, Eric Ochs (and the rest of the dogs that know the answers),
I'm in the process of building my first folder, this folder you made has served as a great inspiration to me. I have a couple of (a hundred) questions to toss up to you and anyone else that might like to chime in. First question, the stop pin,when I was designing my folder, I left a considerable sized flipper, when I was checking out the movement of the blade from opened to closed, I noticed there would be no way for the stop pin to be placed where it would normally go. With a Flipper, where is the best place to put it?

Next question, I'm planning on using Boss's Micro Roller Bearing on my folder, as I feel like it will be the smoothest operating bearing type system, short of the IKBS. It's a pretty big bearing, close to 3/8th's around, with a 15/64th's barrel. That should make a really stout pivot joint, should it be placed dead center of the handle or offset towards the back (spine area) a little? I'm sure I will have many more questions as I get into the build, which starts in about 30 minutes! I'll be looking forward to all the responses to my questions.

Next question, is the detent ball, as Eric Ochs pointed out the detent ball should be more inline with the flipper, to get the firing effect when you flip it out. OK, does that mean in-line with it open or closed? Another thing, most of the detent balls I've seen were placed on the lock right around the front corner, maybe back a little from the edge. I'm using .050 Ti for the liners, if that matters. Also, what size detent ball is recommended? I have 2 sizes in stock 1/16ths and 3/32nd's, this knife will have a 3.5 " blade, from what I've read the size of the blade has some bearing on the size of the detent ball, another thing is that most of the tutorials I've read have the the detent ball basically forced or wedged into a little smaller hole (that's not drilled all the way through), is this the best way to install the detent ball?
If I can pull this folder off like I have it planned, it should be a great example of how awesome this forum is, as I will also be making my own "Micarta", or should I say"Jacarta", which I may call RexCarta...or something like that, and I've considered adding some wood inlays to the handles that would be stabilized by myself as well. Haven't decided about the last one just yet, but it would be cool, and my stabilizing chamber should be done by then.
I really like the way your folder turned out, it looks to be the perfect EDC, and I agree with the rest of the Dogs on here, if you will sell it, someone will buy it out of your pocket! Thanks Everyone for any help you can shed on these problems, Rex
 
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