What will give the most bang for my buck? Disc grinder or metal band saw?

I'm late to the game, but I'd vote for the port-band too. Personally, I purchased a SWAG long ago, and hated it.....it was totally underbuilt for the application. I ended up building my own, and returning the SWAG.....to be fair, I think since then, they've upgraded to heavier gauge material.

The $30 foot switch IS NOT worth it, compared to the Harbor Freight one (which is plug-n-play) or even a clipper brand foot switch (you can get them on Ebay for about $15, and they are hard wired into the power cord)

Now, let me give you some advice on these porta-band saws, and more importantly the blades. These are the "cuttingest" bandsaws you will ever use, provided to learn/know HOW to use them. Pressure is the enemy....particularly with the Milwaukee saws.... pressing too hard on the material you're cutting, causes the idler (top) wheel to tilt, and the internal support mechanism will cut into the INSIDE of the aluminum idler hub... the telltale is aluminum shaving/flakes coming out when cutting/using the saw. IF you're not careful....eventually you will cut completely through the wheel/hub, and it will literally fall off! :) (Personal experience). Afterward I purchased a Dewalt.

The biggest drawback to these saws is the "throat:....the distance between the blade and the housing....limiting your depth of cut....it's just something you have to learn to work around.

OK.....blades. After a bunch of trial and error, I've settled on straight 18tpi or straight 24tpi, depending on the thickness of material I'm cutting. I'd say steer clear of the combo tooth blades (like 10-14, 10-12, etc) Why? Because you will end up breaking one of the larger teeth while cutting, then another, and another, etc.....and you'll got through blades like water through a garden hose. Breaking teeth is rare with straight toothed blades (all 18tpi or all 24tpi)
I've found that the type of blades you buy/use make a huge difference too. I don't often recommend this, but for these 44 7/8" blades, go to Ebay, search for.... "44 7/8" cobalt blades". Look for 8% cobalt blades, from sellers who offer "lots" of 10, 25, 50 etc. (the seller I buy from is located in Florida....I've been buying from him for a number of years, and have always had great service and quality products) These are FAR better blades, and at FAR better prices than going to the big box or home stores, and buying then in the 3-pak. I always order either 25 or 50 at a time..... for me the amount I purchase is dictated by what's in the order logbook..... if I have a lot of folders to build (titanium) I buy the 50 quantity of blades.... If I just need blades for routine shop use, I order 25 at a time. It usually works out to about a dollar LESS PER BLADE, versus buying those 3-paks I mentioned previously.

Hope that's helpful!
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
I'm late to the game, but I'd vote for the port-band too. Personally, I purchased a SWAG long ago, and hated it.....it was totally underbuilt for the application. I ended up building my own, and returning the SWAG.....to be fair, I think since then, they've upgraded to heavier gauge material.

The $30 foot switch IS NOT worth it, compared to the Harbor Freight one (which is plug-n-play) or even a clipper brand foot switch (you can get them on Ebay for about $15, and they are hard wired into the power cord)

Now, let me give you some advice on these porta-band saws, and more importantly the blades. These are the "cuttingest" bandsaws you will ever use, provided to learn/know HOW to use them. Pressure is the enemy....particularly with the Milwaukee saws.... pressing too hard on the material you're cutting, causes the idler (top) wheel to tilt, and the internal support mechanism will cut into the INSIDE of the aluminum idler hub... the telltale is aluminum shaving/flakes coming out when cutting/using the saw. IF you're not careful....eventually you will cut completely through the wheel/hub, and it will literally fall off! :) (Personal experience). Afterward I purchased a Dewalt.

The biggest drawback to these saws is the "throat:....the distance between the blade and the housing....limiting your depth of cut....it's just something you have to learn to work around.

OK.....blades. After a bunch of trial and error, I've settled on straight 18tpi or straight 24tpi, depending on the thickness of material I'm cutting. I'd say steer clear of the combo tooth blades (like 10-14, 10-12, etc) Why? Because you will end up breaking one of the larger teeth while cutting, then another, and another, etc.....and you'll got through blades like water through a garden hose. Breaking teeth is rare with straight toothed blades (all 18tpi or all 24tpi)
I've found that the type of blades you buy/use make a huge difference too. I don't often recommend this, but for these 44 7/8" blades, go to Ebay, search for.... "44 7/8" cobalt blades". Look for 8% cobalt blades, from sellers who offer "lots" of 10, 25, 50 etc. (the seller I buy from is located in Florida....I've been buying from him for a number of years, and have always had great service and quality products) These are FAR better blades, and at FAR better prices than going to the big box or home stores, and buying then in the 3-pak. I always order either 25 or 50 at a time..... for me the amount I purchase is dictated by what's in the order logbook..... if I have a lot of folders to build (titanium) I buy the 50 quantity of blades.... If I just need blades for routine shop use, I order 25 at a time. It usually works out to about a dollar LESS PER BLADE, versus buying those 3-paks I mentioned previously.

Hope that's helpful!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information Ed! Very helpful, especially about idler hub. And that's a good tip on ebay for the blades. Appreciate it.
 
I'm gonna be the odd man out here and say that you should have gone with a DISK GRINDER!

JK... band saw was the right choice, no question.
 
I have a homemade table for a Harbor Freight bandsaw that I no longer use. It's made from a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate. You are welcome to it if you want it. (if the shipping cost isn't to high).
 
Abbott said:
I have a homemade table for a Harbor Freight bandsaw that I no longer use. It's made from a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate. You are welcome to it if you want it. (if the shipping cost isn't to high).
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That's way cool Abbott. Thanks so much. :)I appreciate it. PM sent
 
Hi Sean, here is the saw that the table fits.
68623
I also have a photo of the table itself.
68624

It's "1/4 inch aluminum plate about 10"X10". You likely can modify it to fit whatever you need. If the wedge shape blade channel doesn't bother you (I liked it). I will cheerfully get it sent to you, it should cost about $13.00 to ship. If you would like it, it is yours.
 
Abbott said:
Hi Sean, here is the saw that the table fits.
View attachment 68623
I also have a photo of the table itself.
View attachment 68624

It's "1/4 inch aluminum plate about 10"X10". You likely can modify it to fit whatever you need. If the wedge shape blade channel doesn't bother you (I liked it). I will cheerfully get it sent to you, it should cost about $13.00 to ship. If you would like it, it is yours.
Click to expand...
Thanks Abbott!! I replied to your PM on this. Let me know how you want to be reimbursed for the shipping.
 
I will get it sent to you in the next few days. I have your Pay-Pal and will let you know the shipping cost. I think that you will be able to modify it to your needs. It's just a nice flat aluminum plate.
 
My wife packaged it up for you this morning (you sure were quick on that PayPal) and I will get it in the mail most likely tomorrow. $7.35 shipping isn't bad at all, I think that you will get plenty of good use from it.
 
Abbott said:
My wife packaged it up for you this morning (you sure were quick on that PayPal) and I will get it in the mail most likely tomorrow. $7.35 shipping isn't bad at all, I think that you will get plenty of good use from it.
Click to expand...
Thanks once again Abbott!
 
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