What is your (favorite) sharpening method?

I believe Tai Goo uses only stones, and I've heard his knives are sharper than anything! Anyone wanting to take pics of their technique, feel free to post them here! I know I'm learning a ton just from the text, but pictures are always wonderful!
I use WD40 as a honing oil. I finally cleaned it (after 36 years) with some Bar Keepers Friend. Put some on, scrubbed it with an old tooth brush let it set for about 30 minutes. Re scrubbed rinsed with lots of water, then let it dry out. I read some where that the chemicals in the Barkeeper's friend dissolve the metal particles. I think its oxalic acid if I remember correctly.

Had it out today to touch up some kitchen knives.

I use my Bader, and set it to about 15% speed, and start with a 120 grit J-Flex, then 220, and then 800 and finish with a felt belt and green compound, to polish the edge. I sharpen edge down, using a blade clamp, and jig, to hold the set angle. Here is a pic.

I have never had an issue with heat damage running slow with light pressure, and sharp belts.
BTW I prefer a lighter oil for honing, and not much of it. 3-in-1 oil works, diesel fuel and charcoal lighter fluid work better. I think many commercial honing oils are too viscous and actually impede the cutting action of the stone.
Hey James you might try lamp oil. Wayne Goddard uses it in one of his video and said that is all he uses. Just go to walmart to get it. That is where he said he got it at. Just a thought.
I became very good with stones after much practice. However now I use the Edge Pro Apex and have no complaints. Great system.
I sharpen all by hand the old fashion way.
No machinery or fancy new fangled sharpening systems.
Harder metals like stainless take longer but still can be done this way.
On a very dull blade start with a metal file clamping your knife in a vise always sharpening towards the edge to get your defined edge. I prefer a 15% angled edge instead of the standard 20 to 25.
If you have been doing it long enough you will know the angle and be able to do it without a bevel square or any type of gauge.
Remove from the vise and the rest is done free hand keeping your prefered angle all the time while sharpening.
Start with a coarse wet stone “I prefer water stones".
Then fine and extra fine.
Next a super fine ceramic wet stone.
The last step is to use a sharpening steel for honing the edge. You now have yourself a knife with a scalpels edge.
knives are quiet....
I do my shaRPENING WIth three derf. angles start as low as i can like 11 der. then 21 der. then like 30 if its a big blade if its a smaller or thiner blade i just do two it keeps the blade real sharp for a long time ,i read it somewhere when i first started making knives ,it works for me,and i use a lansky set up but am looking for something better.
Hi guys
This is what I do step wise for a very sharp blade, firstly the slack grinding, and then the "cardboard/paper" wheel step (light pressure on it and only 8-9 runs on cutting edge per side) "Sharpening" then with the magic fool and noob proof way(because i`m a noob @ this :lol:)
The spiderco tri-angle sharpmaker!! It makes you happy like a pup with a lot of milk :biggrin:!!! This is how I was taught by my friend and knife making teacher!! It works like a charm for now and would one day try doing it with a strop, going old school!!

Greetings Martin Schutte

Ps: This post ROCK!
I normally use either a clamp type sharpening system like the lanskey or lately I have been using a very affordable alternative that lets you use any bench stone you own. all you do is cut a 2x4 at a specific angle and place the stone on that and hold the blade horizontally and you will get a very sharp consistent edge.
IMO any discussion on sharpening needs to include the knife's intended use. Choppers git differnet edges than slicers and such. I mostly make slicers...hunting, fishing, and kitchen blades. For final sharpening I use a worn out 320 grit J-Flex (edge down, slowest pulley, light pressure, stoke across quickly) until I see a uniform burr being raised along the entire edge. A few slow and light strokes with a worn out 600 grit DMT diamond stick knocks the burr off (I can actually see tiny metal flakes glittering up my fingers) leaving a hair flinging sharp edge. It seems to hold up very well for me too. For choppers like a machete I'd use a full convex grind and not worry as much about the final burr.
I have stopped taking my working knives to 30K, and then stropping up to 0.1 micron poly diamond.

After some testing I found that the 2K finish works better for my type of application/use, as a home chef.

For those of you who use the Edge Pro Professional model, lookiesee here.



Does anyone have any experience with the edge master 1 x 30 grinder system. Im more curious in it, as I have the same HF grinder that they show. Just curious as to what thier "kit" comes with that makes it 199$

Additionally I thought that it would be too fast.

any thoughts would be apprecitated.
I normally do hand sharpening, but looking for a quicker way to get the initial edge on a blade, the go from there by hand.
If the knife is somewhat sharp and does not need the basic edge geometry ground or reground I go with a 4x10 diamond stone. Do not switch from side to side when sharpening. You want to raise a wire edge on one side at a time. Using a degree wedge of the desired angle; place the blade on wedge and sharpen one side until a wire edge developes. When there is a wire edge the length of the blade, turn the blade over and sharpen this side until the wire edge bends back the other way. To remove the wire edge, lift the spine of the blade until the blade to stone surface is around 30 or 35 degrees, in one motion move the blades edge along the diamond stones surface. The wire edge will come off all at the same time leaving a crisp sharp edge.
I found this technique in an old copy of Field and Stream and have used it for years with great success.
I use the slotted paper wheels for the final burnish.

I use alot of different methods and machines. I think pretty much everyone here can make a knife slice paper and some even cut hair on their arm but a truely sharp blade will pass the HHT . I use paper wheels and various belts on my grinder and also have a tormek t7 and over 30 diffrents stones and several leather strops. Its very scary to sharpen a blade to that extreme, using magnifacation to see the styrations and how stropping affects the edge. I do alot of different methods it depends on the blade your sharpening and its intended purpose. Kellyw
I've used a Sharpmaker for years as my finishing grits. I set a bevel slightly lower than the desired Sharpmaker slot, either 15 or 20 degrees per side. Then I finish on the Sharpmaker by adding a microbevel. The back bevel is about 12 degrees for the 15 degree slot, and 17 degrees for the 20 degree slot. For large blades or heavy rebeveling, I'll use my 1x30 belt sander, and finish with a power stropping with a Surgisharp leather belt and white compound on the sander. After reading Romans writings, I'm kinda moving away from the sander for everything but damage repair and initial sharpening from no edge. I also just got a 4000 grit water stone to go with my 220/1000 combo stone. It took a little breaking in, but it works pretty good now. Not quite as fine as the Sharpmaker white stones, but close.
Usually I start with heavy waterstone called Arato . I go all the way up to 20,000 grit . This is after grinding it to a pretty good edge. Also use steels , silicon carbide paper , leather strops . There are many ways to sharpen knives . Sharpness is one thing , edgeholding depends on steel and temper . I have to have my blades extremely sharp for my customers . I mean what good is a dull samurai sword or tanto or any knife for that matter .
Hey Dan,
I too own an edge pro, but its the pro series. I bought it about 8 months ago, and it gives incredible results, even as a beginner. I started out using the edge pro stones: 120/220/320/600/1000, and 2,3k,7k tapes. Was getting a good edge and mirror polish. After sharpening a ton of knives. I decided to go with some aftermarket chosera stones. The difference is huge, and they cut the metal beter and quicker in my opinion.
I have the chosera 400,600,800,1k,2k,3k,5k,and 10k. Have you tried any aftermarket stones or the stropping accessory with any of ken's diamond sprays. Just lookin to find out any other opinions.