What belts handle ironwood well?

C

CDH

Active Member
I'm trying ironwood for the first time, departing from my favorite mesquite <sniff sniff> for a while. Ugh. I put on a new 120 grit Norton AO belt and went to town. Seconds later I have smoke! Instant scorching! So I slow down to medium speed on my grinder and start moving fast to keep heat down. It still scorched...just took longer.

Dang, treat it like stabilized wood then, start dipping it in water every few seconds.

Now I have ironwood mud everywhere and the belt is clogging something fierce.

Any suggestions on a different belt? I don't want to go coarser since I always end up with deep scratches. J-flex? Other? I am just roughing it out now after epoxying it together last night.
 
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On Iron wood I start with a sharp new 60 grit AO cheap belt at a medium speed,then to a 120 AO,always new.then to hand shaping.
Stan
 
What Belts Handle Ironwood well?

NONE Of EM! Really! ;)

That stuff lives up to it's name. It was one of the first exports in the 1600's It was used for Ship board Block & Tackle Pulleys!

Slow to medium speed, Clean the belts often! It will start to burn when the belt gets plugged!
I use Hermes & other A/O Belts, Starting at 50 grit. Water doesn't seem to help cause you get Da Mud! As you found out!
KEEP IT MOVING! Always new belts and they are done on the one handle.

Wear a respirator as always! This stuff can give you nasty sinus infections! Ask me how I know? :sad:

If you discover any quick fixes Please let me know!

It's a Bi%$# to work. But the beautiful pattern & Glow is unsurpassed!

Once I get it to a rough 220 Grit I do the rest by hand like S.Buzek said.

Laurence
www.rhinoknives.com

P.S. as soon as you get scorching, Its time for a new belt!
 
Similar to Stan, but I use a brand new 60 grit J-Weight belt with the grinder WAY DOWN SLOWWWWWwwww... After rough shaping on the machine, its all by hand.

Rob!
 
It sounds like I didn't quote a high enough price for this blade...(ouch) Oh well, I hope I have enough belts handy or it isn't gonna get done in time. I refuse to use anything rougher than 120 for anything except rough profiling steel because I always seem to get a spot too deep and leave one or two scratches that just jump out at 600 grit.

Thanks guys!
 
What the others said about hand working is true.
Also are you taping the blades to protect them while working the handle?
Blue painters tape is the easiest to get back off.

Years ago I would take my doggie to the local dog park and bring my knives with taped up blades there and some sheets on 100-150-220-400 to work on the handles. Ironwood in particular! I'd sit on the bench while the doggie ran around and I would Sand and sand. I also sold a lot of knives that way! People would see me with a dirty towel wrapped around the blade so I could hold it more firmly, Sading away at the handle. Hey? What are you doin?

I almost named my brand, Dog Park Knives!

Laurence
 
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