Tru Oil vs. Ca

wmhammond

wmhammond

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

Can I build up 7 or 8 coats of Tru Oil on a handle, let it dry properly (say 7 - 10 days), sand it to 1500 grit and buff it to a very high gloss like I can Ca or will it break down with the heat of the buffer? Thanks,

Wallace
 
Proper buffing on something like that shouldn't produce any heat.

Look at high end rifle stocks....they're super glossy and hand oil finished and hand buffed in many cases. Yes, you should be able to replicate that with tru oil.
 
My only word of caution is that you make sure to take the first, and sometimes second, coat of tru oil back down to the wood with 0000 steel wool. Successive coats will build up quickly and give you that CA looking finish you are after. The third and fourth successive application of tru oil gets buffed lightly with 0000 steel wool to knock off any ridges or bumpy texture. By the time you get to the 5th coat you shouldn't need to use the steel wool anymore unless you are making bubbles when you apply it. By the fourth coat we're talking a single drop per side, anyway.
 
There's a few good videos on Youtube regarding a good application of Tru-Oil. I've used it with only a few coats and have done testing all the way up to 12 coats and it does come out with a beautiful finish.

Essentially, I'd recommend doing it in warmer weather at least 70deg or more. The drying time is much easier to work with. My process for the 12 coat just to see the finish was as follows....
- Apply coat - wait 2 hrs - repeat 3 times. I used my finger for these coats to get a bit extra on there.
- Apply coat - wait 2 hrs - sand smooth with 800grit w/d paper w/ water. This gets your basic smooth down for the base
- Apply coat - wait 2 hrs - smooth with 0000 - repeat until you're tired of the process. I managed the 12 coats. These coats I used a blue shop towel for a more even coat and minimize high spots.
- Wait the 7 days for full hard
- Start sanding for finish with Wet/Dry paper from 800 up to 1500grit or happy with finish.
- Be careful on your buffing if you want to try that as any heat will gum the finish and could completely ruin it (yes I learned that the hard way)

This was just my process and I'm sure a gun maker or someone who's done it many times will have a better process. It seems to work best on a hidden tang finish as a full tang will get the buildup of TO on the steel and could have a less than smooth finish. My testing was on a piece of cocobolo which I had to clean with acetone prior to testing because of the oils in it. I'm sure a more dry wood will finish differently, but either way.....WOW. It's a beautiful finish with the TO bringing out all the grain pattern very well.
 
the 0000 steel wool will remove the buildup on the tang between coats. I also wipe the tang with a paper towel when i apply the coat. The paper towel gets most of it.

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I far prefer Tru-Oil to CA..... probably the biggest issue that most folks have with Tru-Oil is having the patience, and applying it correctly. The key is when you apply Tru-Oil, you need to wipe to to almost dry before allowing it to cure (min of 2 hours), and then LIGHTLY go over it with #0000 steel wool, and reapply.
I generally go to 10-15 coats depending on the wood/application. So for me, it's several DAYS to compile all the coats. As far as buffing goes, Light and easy (at least compared to CA) is the way to go.
 
As said before, even power buffing should not build any heat when done properly - just a "touch" is all that's required.

Depending on the wood, I sometimes like CA for the first couple of coats even when using Tru-Oil. I'll sand CA while wet to build a tad of slurry, then dry and sand back to clean bare wood. This removes all the CA, but leaves any open pores/voids filled with CA/wood dust. Then I follow up with Tru-Oil. As Ed (and Bruce) has said, step 1 is to wipe on a good thick coat of Tru-Oil, let sit a few minutes, then wipe off with paper towel. Let dry a couple hours, then repeat step 1 for several coats.

There will be a few sanding between coats as it looks like it might need it, perhaps first time with 400 grit, later with 800 grit, then on to the fine grits. After a few coats build up you'll have a finish that really looks good.

Ken H>
 
There issome info I should have gleaned earlier about waiting and wiping almost dry. I left the big sloppy mess tondry and ended up chasing my tail and sanding to bare wood 2x before it laid right for me. Now I know for the next one.
 
I have allot of experience with both finishes. The trouble I experience with CA is I get cloudiness that shows up from several thin and sanding in between coats. If you do not sand between coats but instead keep putting the CA on and allow it to dry very thoroughly and sand it down without going into the wood it buffs crystal clear and perfect. Its not an easy finish.
The Tru Oil is a fool proof finish but the directions are not correct. The Tru oil is too thick out of the bottle, it needs to be thinned by 1/3 rd with mineral spirits. The first coat (slurry coat) needs to be left to dry for several days to completely dry. After it is completely dry (no odor) it can be sanded smooth and additional coats applied. Use your finger and rub it on and rub it back off. Its impossible to rub every bit back off. It drys very fast if the coat is this thin. Smell it, if it still smells like oil just let it dry longer. finer grits as you go again and again until you are up to 1500 grit or so. Repeat, Repeat,
Never use wet or dry sand paper as it puts black color into the pores. It may take 10-20 coats but be sure its dry before applying another coat or you'll have a messy build up.
I know it sounds hard to do especially if you are the impatient type but just try it, you'll like it. A buffer isn't needed but if you prefer just be careful to stay off the sharp edges.
 
If the stabilizing is good, no additional finish is required... I generally finish to 800-1200 grit then a LIGHT buff on a clean wheel. That being said, I often put a single coat of Tru-Oil on stabilized woods..... it seems to make them "pop" more so then without it. :)
 
Ed, when you put a light coat of Tru-Oil on stabilized wood, when do you put the single coat? Early in sanding? OR - after the final 1500 grit sanding to make the grain pop?
 
To add what Ed said, I also apply a single coat to stabilized woods and also Micarta before buffing on a clean wheel. Even Micarta finished to a rougher, grippier finish will clean up nicely.
 
Ed, when you put a light coat of Tru-Oil on stabilized wood, when do you put the single coat? Early in sanding? OR - after the final 1500 grit sanding to make the grain pop?
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After ALL the sanding is complete. I blow all the dust off with compressed air, then a single coat of Tru-Oil, allow to cure overnight, then a LIGHT buff on a clean wheel.

To add to the above..... a single coat of Tru-Oil on synthetics will keep them from getting that dingy, dirty look that comes from hand oils and such....no matter what level of finish you've applied prior to the Tru-Oil.
 
probably the best way would be to make a few test blanks of different woods and try different finishes. I like Formby's Gloss Tung Oil, the only issue is 12 hours between coats. I think a key to all finishing is having a dust free spot where they can dry.
 
scott.livesey said:
I think a key to all finishing is having a dust free spot where they can dry.
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that is a great point. i learned to make a habit of covering my handles after i apply the oil. i drape a paper towel over them (not touching) and it greatly reduces the amount of roughness you have to buff off with the steel wool.


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I really don't like CA for any kind of finish. It can cloud while finishing for one thing, the thing that concerns me most is it is dangerous to your health. The fumes are a real lung problem and damage is not reversible. Do be careful with it if you use it. Personally I will not.
 
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