Thoughts on

Rick Otts

Well-Known Member
Well I am just getting into this.Well as soon as I move this spring.And have been looking into grinders.The thing I have seen about them is.Someone says this one or that one and for this much.Well you go too the web site and it dont include the motor.Now I am not talking about those 2 or 3 grand rigs.So I been looking at the Kalamazoo 2x48 to start with and I can always put the rig on later for 72 in.Now for me at 57 I dont expect to blow away the knife world with some new found talent.I would just like to makes some knifes and who knows sell 1 or 2 along the way.Wat are your thoughts on this machine?
 
I'm gona go off the assumption that you intend to use the stock removal method..... if thats so, then buy the absolute best grinder you can, because it is going to be at the very heart of your knifemaking endeavors. Most of us start, or started out in the same situation and mindset as you.....that grinders are terribly expensive..... "There's no way I would ever need, or could afford one of those!"

Generally here's how it happens: An individual will see how much the "top end" grinders cost, and will seek other options. It begins with either trying to build your own, or buying a grinder that is at least somewhat within you're perceived price range, then, finding out that it simply isn't as capable as you'd hoped. Then you get frustrated with it, and look for something "better"......sometimes the story goes through that cycle several times before an individual (if they stick with knifemaking that long) breaks down and buys one of the "top end" grinders. The tough part about the whole experience is that by the time a person decides to buy one of those "top end" grinders, they've already spent enough money to have purchased 2-3 of them. The kicker is that if you purchase something like the Kalamazoo machine, and ever try to sell it, you'll take an awful loss..... where as any of the "top end" grinders will generally sell on the secondary market for nearly as much as you paid for it.

Can you "get by" with the Kalamazoo grinder? .....sure, but you will find yourself frustrated, and fighting it the whole way, and once your at the end or your rope with it, you'll be wishing you had a "better" machine.

I say all of that based on my own experiences, not only personally, but as someone who has been around knifemaking for a number of years..... I've seen the scenario play itself out time and time again.

Personally, I do not like any of the "2 wheel" style grinders......they are extremely limited in their versatility, and in my experience are simply difficult to work on/with. I may very well be jaded because I have 3 different 2x72 machines in my shop, but in the past I have owned 2x48" machines......there is simply no comparison. I easily used twice the number of belts on the 2x48 versus the 2x72 machines to achieve the same amount of work...... and had a much more meager selection of belts to choose from.

OK, all that having been said, it really boils down to you, and the choices you are comfortable with. I don't know your situation, or the amount of resources you have/intend to put into knifemaking, but I can tell you that I have seen many people over the years in similar situations, seeking to buy a grinder. My recommendation is to think it through, ask a LOT of questions, and DO NOT let price alone be your sole guide.
 
So I been looking at the Kalamazoo 2x48
I bought the 2x72 model it was a huge letdown. The Kalamazoo is not suited to knifemaking, I still use mine for heavy stuff like sharpening lawn mower blades and roughing out stuff from the forge.

You don't have to drop several thousand if (big if) your mechanically inclined. Us Canadians have problems getting real good grinders or the shipping is unreasonable so we get resourceful. I built my grinder from the EFFR plans on the Wilmont grinders site. With a variable speed motor it is a reasonable mid range grinder. The key is you have to take time to build it right, no shortcuts. Ed had a tutorial on tricking one out that really helped me.
 
Ok guys thank you for the advice.I looked at a couple like I said Coote Oregon but you got to buy the motor.Now wat can I expect to pay for that?
 
Motors don't have to be expensive. A 56C frame, 1.5HP motor is going to run you about $150 if you go with an economy motor.

To make comparisons equal, look for the following:

56C frame
1.5 HP
TEFC enclosure
3600 RPM (or 3450... same thing as 3600)

Those specs will be the same for a single phase motor or a three phase motor. Now you can compare motors and prices.

Obviously, if you go single phase you will use step pulleys to change speeds. If you go three phase, you need a VFD. ($350)


Electric Motor Wholesale
Automation Direct

Two great sources to compare motors. Look at the economy lines of motors with rolled steel frames. Automation Direct calls this line the "Iron Horse" line.


If you go three phase, send a PM to Wayne Coe here on KnifeDogs. He can set you up with a motor and VFD and get you off on the right foot quickly.
 
I bought a lb1000. I found a suitable vfd on Craigslist for cheap, a crate 2hp 3 phase eBay motor for cheap and haven't looked back. I wouldn't trade it for world. The vfd is worth whatever you pay. I had to save to fit the whole thing, but I can't imagine making a knife without it now....

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
 
I only make a few knives a year and my 2 wheel Coot has been good enough for me for the last 12 or so years.

Pros:
It's built sturdy, small footprint for my small shop, tracks good, easy to modify the bits you might find to be bothersome.

Cons:
Work rests can get in the way and take a while to remove or put back on. Small wheel attachment is limited to 1" diameter. As all 2 wheel grinders, the working height between the contact wheel and flat platten are about 6" different. Pulley drive system can take a lot of tinkering if you want it to run nice and smooth.

I'm in the process of building a new stand for mine because I can no longer stand for long lengths at a time. On the new bench I'm going to add an attachment to hold the work rests, quick release on the bench, to fix what is the biggest bother for me. I also scored a free motor and will be adding a VFD and timing belt pulleys that should run near as smooth as a direct drive machine without the fuss.

Keep in mind, some of the replies above are from folks who put bread and butter on their table by making knives. It's understandable they would rather grind material than screw around with a machine. My reply is from a guy that likes to work on and build machines as much as making blades and it's a hobby that's fun for me. I do spend top dollar for tools that put bread and butter on my table.
I'm also guilty of recommending top dollar tools to folks that will never see close to the use of my daily kit, we become intimate with those tools and can't imagine how anyone could do without.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.But at this time I am looking at the one Oregon blade maker sells.Seems like a nice rig but I am still doing research on this.Got the motor thing down just need to check out a VFD next.
 
I picked up a used 1.5 HP motor on Ebay that was from a pressure washer for a bit more than $100. Whatever you get make sure it's a sealed unit.

I'm a smith so I'm setting up my bevels with a hammer but I also run a Coote which is more flexible than the Kalamazoo and not t hat much more expensive.

Doug
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.But at this time I am looking at the one Oregon blade maker sells.Seems like a nice rig but I am still doing research on this.Got the motor thing down just need to check out a VFD next.
i have several VFDs on hand, some operate on 120vac and some operate on 240vac single phase. send me a PM with your needs and i will work up a quote.
 
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