This weeks work

[diverdale]

Two questions Gruff. I will be making my first leather sheath soon. Do you stain in The beginning or when it’s finished? Also , you mentioned you drilled the holes. Is that easier than the 4 prong punch? Or reasons why I would use one method over the other?

When I make sheaths, I drill as opposed to trying to use pricking irons. By the time you stack all the layers, including the welt, a pricking iron/punch would not go all the way through. I do use a pricking iron or rotary wheel to mark the holes for drilling.

I always stain before I stitch as well. Of course edge coating is done after the fact.

Edit: I know I'm not Gruff but I have done a fair bit of leatherwork over the last few years

 

[Mark Barone]

When I make sheaths, I drill as opposed to trying to use pricking irons. By the time you stack all the layers, including the welt, a pricking iron/punch would not go all the way through. I do use a pricking iron or rotary wheel to mark the holes for drilling.

I always stain before I stitch as well. Of course edge coating is done after the fact.

Edit: I know I'm not Gruff but I have done a fair bit of leatherwork over the last few years

I appreciate the answer. I didn’t think about the layers so I will do the drilling also. I just ordered a few leather tools and have a nice heavy weight piece to start. I think I am becoming a thread hyjacker. Sorry Gruff. I am a sponge right now.

 

[Von Gruff]

Two questions Gruff. I will be making my first leather sheath soon. Do you stain in The beginning or when it’s finished? Also , you mentioned you drilled the holes. Is that easier than the 4 prong punch? Or reasons why I would use one method over the other?

I buy undyed leather and dye after cutting the pattern. Have had a few instances where I got a mark on the leather (thumb print with glue etc) and the dye will not penetrate through the stain.
The 4 pronged fork is fine for straight lines but there are curves on my sheaths so the drill is a better option. Not a drill bit as such but a simple sharpened stem

 

[Mark Barone]

I buy undyed leather and dye after cutting the pattern. Have had a few instances where I got a mark on the leather (thumb print with glue etc) and the dye will not penetrate through the stain.
The 4 pronged fork is fine for straight lines but there are curves on my sheaths so the drill is a better option. Not a drill bit as such but a simple sharpened stem

Oh that's interesting, not a bit. I am assuming a bit would tear up a little more than a sharp stem. Thank you Gruff.

 

[Dusty One]

Nice looking work !!

 

[Von Gruff]

A finished and ready to ship

The Daggers are 1095 with walnut on brass with one having read and back and the other blue and black spacers

An EDC with 1084 and buffalo horn furniture

a skinner in 1084 with self made black and orange micarta. The orange canvas became red when the epoxy was added.

Light hunter in 1084 with simple accacia woodware.

A mini skinner in 1084 with buffalo horn and eucalyptus root

This group is for a wedding as gifts to the groomsmen and bridesmaids. The 2 5 1/2 inch chefs are 12C27 and one has rimu with the other having acccia with the two boners in 1084 being handled with rimu.

 

[Mark Barone]

I received my leather kit and it comes with the rolling spacing tool. Are they standard sizes. It is about 1/8 inch apart. Is that about what you do.

 

[Von Gruff]

I received my leather kit and it comes with the rolling spacing tool. Are they standard sizes. It is about 1/8 inch apart. Is that about what you do.

There are different spacing wheels and the one I use prints 5 stitches to the inch

 

[Mark Barone]

There are different spacing wheels and the one I use prints 5 stitches to the inch

Thanks Gruff that’s the one I have also.