Thermo Couple

[Gliden07]

So.eone I know suggested I get one of these for heat treating my blades. We're would I look and what am I looking for? Also is this something that is necessary?

 

[JeremyBartlett]

I'm assuming you are using your forge to heat treat. You'll need a k type thermocouple and a pid to display the temp. Also make sure you get a thermocouple with a ceramic sleeve. I got mine from auberins.com bit I know a lot of people have gotten the Chinese stuff off of eBay without issues

 

[Gliden07]

Awesome!! I actually have a PID that I bought for my lead pot to cast bullets!!

 

[Wayne Coe]

This is a hand out that I wrote because I had so many people at conferences see mine and want to know how to get one and how to set it up:

How I got my Pyrometer. September 15, 2015 by Wayne Coe


I have had a number of people ask me about how to get a Pyrometer like mine so I decided to write up this little sheet.



I have the PID that you can find at this URL.

http://www.lightobject.com/JLD7100-PID-Temperature-Controller-P44.aspx

There are a number of other companies that sell this PID and there are other PIDs also.

Last year I paid $28.42 including shipping but now I see that it is $28.95 plus shipping.

With this PID you must also supply your own power cord so there is another expense, unless you can source a power cord from an old extension cord or something similar.



For the Thermocouple you can use this URL. http://www.omega.com/pptst/TJ36CAXL_NNXL.html

These come in 12” and 18” probes. For a 12” probe you can order a TJ36-CAXL-14U-12. I just priced that out and it came to $44.00 plus shipping. Remember that the reading comes from the very end of the probe only. The tip of your probe needs to be in the area that you are measuring the temperature. In the case of a Ribbon Burner that would be in the center of the burner. I have mine lying on the floor of the forge.



I mounted my PID in a double outlet box and used the plastic outdoor type box which is gray and is waterproof and dust proof if you use a cable gland for the connections. I ran both cords out through the one cable gland. Keep in mind that the probe is somewhat fragile when hot. You need do devise a method of securing the probe in the forge and the PID so that they don’t fall or otherwise get moved around while you are working. I drilled a hole in a fire brick to extend the probe through and mounted the box to my forge stand.

To program your PID for temperature control I found this on www.lightobject.com support forum.



Re: JLD7100 PID Temperature Controller Setting

Postby cumorglas » Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:17 pm

press the set button
using the arrows to move the blinky bit over and the numbers up and down make it say 0089
then press set again
use the up and down arrows to get it to to say inty
then press set again
use your up and down arrows to get it to say k which doesn't look like a k at all. it sort looks like this
|_| It looks more like a backward 4
|

then press set again
then use up and down arrows to make it say end
then press set again
then you should be fine and able to tell what temp it is wherever in your forge you put the thermocouple. make sure it can handle the range you need. if not k thermocouples are not terribly expensive

Be sure that Fahrenheit is the temp setting -- CorF = 1.

Good luck and Let me know how I can help you.

 

[Gliden07]

Thanks Wayne!! Just got off of Eds site too! Not Voodoo like I thought!! This will help bring my future knives to a higher more consistent level!!