tang area

franklin

Well-Known Member
hey guys was wondering i dont have a tradish anvil well its a upsidedown r/r track and i have no hardy hole so i use edge of track to start then grind out the rest anyone suggest a easyer way has you can see i dont have alot what i do i make:les: thanks any help would be great
 
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Thunter124

Well-Known Member
So what are you trying to do here? Are you wanting to do a hidden tang or a full tang with distal taper ? So long as the corners of your "anvil" wont be destroyed if you hammer in the tang shape it should be fine, I don't see what lack of a hardy has to do with the tang. With a full tang and a distal taper its going to take a ballpein and some patience. For a hidden tang your going to heat up the metal to cherry red and hand bang on it over the edge, and just keep manipulating the steel until you get the desired shape. Coincidentally what kind of glow are you getting out of your metal with your torch forge, is it able to get to cherry red and close to yellow heat? If it wont get up to a good red/yellow its going to take allot of force and work to get that hammered into shape.

(also: post needs formatting, I read it about 5 times before I figured out the question)
 

franklin

Well-Known Member
yes was in a hurry had to do something itwill be a hidden tang what i was looking for is a rounded transition or curve between blade and tang not worried aboute forge it will reach welding heat wish i was better at exsplaining but cant find the wright words trying to find a pic of what im looking for if find 1 i will post thanks
 

franklin

Well-Known Member
ok think i found the words i was looking for the shoulder area were hidden tang starts at the shoulders every time i use the edge of anvil i get a 90 im afraid of stress points and want to make it more curved and i dont have a step down hardie or a spring fuller is that a better exsplanation man i hope so thanks again
 

Doug Lester

Well-Known Member
This is how I do it. I forge the tang close to where I want it at the shoulder. Then I use a file guide and a pillar file to cut it almost to where I want the union of the tang and the blade. Then I switch to a round file and cut the rest of the way to the line. I may have to go back with the pillar file to even things out so there's not a round notch in the tang but I'm careful not to get into where the tang meets the shoulder of the blade and resquare the corner. I find that the file guide is indespensible in keeping the shoulders of the blade even but care must be used clamping it down where you want it. Always mark your line first.

Doug Lester
 

Thunter124

Well-Known Member
What he said is one way, another thing you could look at doing is taking that bar your using as an anvil and rounding out the edges at one end, just take you a file and some sandpaper and make it nice smooth and round. Normally that is one of the uses of an anvil horn, but also note: most anvils are rounded at the edges of the face, as well as hammers, the reason for this is to avoid those sharp 90 degree indentations that would create problems like your having, so if you felt like it you could just round out on the whole bar.
 

mike miller

KNIFE MAKER
Take a piece of rebar and bent double into a enlongated c. Put your blade where you want your shoulders to be and hit it. May need help to hold blade vertical between the rebar so you can have even shoulders to start your tang.
 

franklin

Well-Known Member
thanks guys gives me a couple of alternatives and thats what i was looking for Godzilla seems to be a nice choice to build and would save me time from the way i have been doing it sorry i did not give good desript the first time around
 

feraldude

Active Member
Is Godzilla what you would consider a fullering tool? I'm curious about these and if there are fullering tools for hardy holes to create transitions for integral bolsters...I think this is on topic...can anyone discuss this?
 
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