I use 1075 and 15n20 or 1075 and w2. I will use 80crv2 and 1075 and 15n20 in the future.
I know, you don't pattern weld. You should pick any of those steels (except w2, which I use for edge-holding but never the whole body of the sword).
Probably, you can't get 15n20 in thick stock (unless Aldo has it). So, go with 80crv2. It is (reputed to be - I have never tested it I am sad to say, because I have avoided 5160) better than 5160 in terms of edge holding and doesn't sacrifice toughness. I accidentally confused it with some annealed W1 and tried to machine it (the 80crv2). Even in a simple annealed state (slow-cool surrounded by hot fire bricks) it was hell. I literally could not mill a slot of 1/8" width into it. Not with a hi-torque mini mill. The cutter just bent.
It is good stuff. It will resist wear and also be springy and hard to break. If I wasn't strung out on hamons, I would probably use this in every sword I made.
By the way, there is a good video by Wally Hayes Canadian knife and sword maker, about how to make a katana-like sword by stock removal.