Sweeping plunge line? Grind line?

[Chris Railey]

I’ll just be happy when I get 2 the same.... lol

Two words my friend, file guide. Make it, buy it or borrow it just use it. That is the only way I get mine right.

 

[opaul]

If you get one get the carbide guides.

 

[Bruce McLeish]

Here is the tutorial I promised. Step 1: cover the blade with some metal marker and scribe (using a carbide pen if possibleNext, I set my file at a 1* angle relative to the blade. Just going for shape here.Iuse these little cross hatches to gauge progressAfter a few file swipes, no filing toward the plunge line is progressing, so I change the angle againRepeat filing and watching the lineAfter a short time, the plunge line appears pretty close. we'll further define it during the sanding phase. The next step would be to change the file angle to it's final angle - in this case 5*. and start filing the bevel. Remember to watch that topline.
Hope this helps, I'll answer any questions that I can.

 

[diverdale]

Here is the tutorial I promised. Step 1: cover the blade with some metal marker and scribe (using a carbide pen if possibleView attachment 76743Next, I set my file at a 1* angle relative to the blade. Just going for shape here.View attachment 76744View attachment 76746View attachment 76747Iuse these little cross hatches to gauge progressView attachment 76748View attachment 76749After a few file swipes, no filing toward the plunge line is progressing, so I change the angle againView attachment 76751View attachment 76752Repeat filing and watching the lineView attachment 76753After a short time, the plunge line appears pretty close. we'll further define it during the sanding phase. The next step would be to change the file angle to it's final angle - in this case 5*. and start filing the bevel. Remember to watch that topline.
Hope this helps, I'll answer any questions that I can.

I don’t think I’m smart enough to make this happen ... lol

great job on that grind though ... please post a completed knife pic

 

[Bruce McLeish]

Trust me ... It don't take smart as much as it takes care. Just like anything in this pursuit it takes time to accomplish. All you can do is try.
BTW, wasn't it you that started this whole shebang?

 

[MTBob]

Mr. McLeish you are a Skookum craftsman!

 

[Bruce McLeish]

Bob, I don't know what that means. I hope it's good though.

 

[MTBob]

Oh, it's good... really good.

 

[Bruce McLeish]

In that case , thanks.

 

[John Wilson]

Bob, I don't know what that means. I hope it's good though.

It’s an old Iroquois word meaning “smells like ben gay and dirty feet”

 

[Bruce McLeish]

I resemble that !

 

[wmhammond]

I can do it with my grinding jig. First, I mount my blade on the jig at the most extreme angle so it cuts a very sloping grind line to begin with. Then, I off-set the belt on my grinder so the belt is overhanging the platen about 1/4 to 1/2". Then I begin my grind at my grind line mark with the edge of the belt that is overhanging the platen. ON EVERY PASS the blade must be introduced to the belt exactly square to the belt. This allows the overhanging part of the belt to cut less than the part of the belt supported by the Platen because it unsupported from the back and it works gradually so the part of the overhang closest to the platen (a little more support from the back) cuts a little more than that part of the overhang furthest from the platen (with less support from the back). As long as you keep the blade flat to the platen on every pass the belt will produce the long curving line you are after. It you come in with the blade not square to the platen on the grind line side it will dig in and the long sloping line will straighten up towards the top of the blade.

 

[Tooln]

Ok so I don't get around here very often and post even less. I haven't made a knife yet but just about ready for my first. I made myself a jig for my belt sander and tried it out on a piece of 1/4" oak trim. I set my bevel to 7 degree, marked the center of the trim board and sanded till I got to the center and then did the other side. It turned out good and can't wait to try it on a blade, but realise it's not going to go as fast as on the wooded test piece. One thought that keep going through my mind is sharpening. Should I leave a small flat for the sharpening angle after while beveling, or just bevel to a point and then sharpen after hardening. I apologize for the dumb question and hope I explained it well. I also wasn't sure where to post and hope this is ok.