Surface Grinding Question

Mark Behnke

Mark Behnke

Well-Known Member
I ground one side of a 1 1/2" X 7" bar of hot rolled 1084fg to a smooth surface.

Checked it and noticed it had a concave bow about.050" so ground the other side down and now have concave bow on that side it's curling up towards the wheel.

I take light slow passes and watch the heat.

Should I stress relieve before grinding?

What can I do to correct this?
 
I never place anything lengthwise on the chuck. That's why it heated and bowed.

Place it at the largest angle possible across the chuck. This way, the wheel only contacts a small area on each pass.
 
Also I hit the flat platen on the grinder and knock off most of the mill scale before surface grinding.
Stan
 
I do a lot of surface grinding at my day job and the previous comments are spot on. Also a few things I do. You have to get into the steel and away from the surface.Ideally I like to remove 0.010 or more from each side . I find alot of folks don't remove enough material . Shiny just doesn't cut it. Also you want to do at least 2 flips and three is usually better to get a flat surface. You also want to remove equal amounts from each side, and having a flood of coolant is also critical to preserve your sanity, otherwise the heat builds up stress and your material sucks up off the magnet. Hope this helps some.
 
Belts do make a huge difference.

It seems blasphemous to use belts on a surface grinder, and the old old Krauts I apprenticed under would give me a proper flogging for doing it, but it works.

And works WELL.
 
Thanks all for your response and tips.
I've been leaning towards a belt conversion.

Is there an advantage to 1" wide vs. 2" wide belt or vise versa?
 
Personally, my surface grinder is converted for 2x72" belts....that way I can use any belt that I have in the shop for my grinders, and not have to think about either buying 1" belts, or splitting 2" belts. The key to a belt conversion on a surface grinder is using the hardest durometer wheel you can find. Using the normally available 70-80 durometer contact wheels will result in the cupping you're trying to get away from. My surface grinder contact wheels are 100 durometer urethane.
 
Mark: I converted my grinder to 2X72 belt grinder. Then I have placed a cool mist system on the grinder. I can move the cool mist to my belt grinder to keep them cool. dlee
 
Get in contact with Shane at SunRay......ask hm for the hardest durometer wheel they make.....that's the one you want for a surface grinder application. I'm running wheels that I purchased years ago from Bertie in South Africa. He no longer offers them....but before he ran out of stock, I ordered a second on to keep in the shop as a spare.
I've helped several folks work with Shane at SunRay to get the contact wheels they needed for converting their surface grinders.
 
Yes. Sunray and ask for Shane.

I did this at Ed's recommendation and have ordered two contact wheels for conversions.

As Ed said I went with the hardest material which is the 90 Shore D and they work wonderfully.

-Josh
 
Should the wheels be smooth or serrated?
Also having this problem, have been tinkering with an idea to have the magnet set on an aluminum cooling block with cold water running thru it. Anyone see an issue with this? Would make your magnetic table a heat sink.

Thanks and God Bless
Mike
 
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