suggestions on a respirator.

Cameron Wilcox

Well-Known Member
I am looking for a respirator that will work for standard handle material/ steel grinding. I have little money ATM but do not want to risk not having one.

Any suggestions on an affordable respirator to buy? I have looked around some but would like to know what makers with more experience use.
 
Just about any particulate filter respitator will do. Don't get me wrong and buy the cheap masks but the respirators. You should be able to find them at any hardware or home improvement store. You can also look online. Grizzly.com sells pretty good ones but they may cost a bit more but well worth it. I found mine at a local lumber store at suits me very well.
 
okay thanks for the help. I had heard some people say to avoid cheap ones but it was for a different use (smelting lead) good to know I don't have to put down tons of money for one.
 
You can buy 3M half mask respirators for $18 online with P100 filters. I prefer the big p100 cartridges since I also use it for welding and painting, they run $20 for a pair and are worth every cent.
 
I have to say something: It's not just your lungs, it's your eyes too.

I was wearing a respirator and goggles, but the goggles didn't sit tight on my nose where the respirator hit 'em. Piece of grinder grit bounced into my right eye socket. For a couple of weeks I kept thinking I'd washed it out - to realize a day or two later that it was still in there. Several hundred dollars later at the eye doctor's - and I decided a full face shield was worth the $100+ ...

I went to several industrial safety shops and tried on face shield respirators - not all of them fit my bone structure - wound up with this one:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-...r-Facepiece/dp/B001RTG84A/ref=pd_sbs_indust_2
and have no regrets - heck of a lot cheaper than the eye doctor - not to mention the threat of damage to my right eye.
 
My recommendation is to stay clear of those "cheap" respirators like you would find at most hardware outlets/stores. Those are generally the ones with plastic face pieces...they WILL NOT seal against your face, and most of the time the protection they provide is next to nothing.

I can tell you that from experience. I used them for a lot of years (the cheap respirators), thinking I was OK. Less than three years ago the Docs discovered a tumor on my right lung, and when it was all said and done, the biopsy showed iron, calcium (stags and ivories), and synthetics (Micarta/G10). I spent 8 weeks recovering from having a chunk of my right lung removed! During that time I did a lot of research on respirators...I chose to go with the 3M 7500 series respirators....mainly because of the silicone face piece that seals well, even with facial hair. This mask uses the P100 type filters. The 7500 series comes in three sizes: 7501= small, 7502= medium, 7503=large. Of course no respirator is any good unless you wear it! Since my lung situation, I have "hooks" hanging in front of the machines in my shop, and each has a respirator hanging from it....positioned in just such as manner that you have to through the mask, in order to get to the machine.

DO NOT goof around with cheap respirators!! I did, and it cost me $65,000 in medical bills, 8 weeks sitting in a recliner recovering, and a chunk of my right lung! Had it not been for the simple grace of God, it's likely that the tumor would not have been found until it was too late.
 
I will echo what all have said on the quality respirator. I work in the Occupational Safety field and will tell you that the cheaper brands offer much less protection factor due to fit. If you dont have a good seal the quality of your cartridge is meaningless.

Also look at improving your breathing zone!

If you can point a simple box fan blowing accross your grinder to the outside atmosphere you would be removing a large part of the problem! You still need a respirator, but the cleaner the air is when you start, the better it is to breath!

With all the materials we breathe these days PLEASE wear proper respirators!!!!!! Its such a simple thing to protect yourself!!!!

God Bless
Mike
 
Ed & Mike - I'm using 3M 2091 (particulate & lead) filters - rattle my cage if you think that's not adequate.

Correction: the link I posted is not /exactly/ the full face 3M I'm using but it's close (I've got the 3M-6898 model).

I'll re-emphasize that when I went around to industrial safety stores and tried on several brands/models - some sealed comfortably around my face shape and others did not. It has to fit snugly - and the more comfortable, the less I'll fight wearing it.

Also I have to have glasses to work - luckily simple $20 "reading" glasses work. Un-screw the ear pieces and replace each side with 6" or so of thin cord tied to a strap of elastic to go behind my head and I can have my glasses on inside the mask w/out breaching the seal.
 
As long as it's sealing well around your face, I think your good. Now, the way to tell is that if after you've done a bunch of grinding, you take the mask off, and looking in a mirror, see dark lines down on your face, just outboard of your nostrils.....then it's not working. As far as the filters.....The P100 filters START with basic particulate filtering, and then each type of filter beyond that adds levels of protection for specific hazards. The filters that I'm currently using are 2076HF, simply because I found a deal on two cases of them. They have all the protection of the 2091 filter, plus Hydrogen Fluoride protection....now I'll likely never require the HF protection, but I'm getting the particulate protection that we, as knifemakers, need the most.

The masks that I currently use (the 3M 7500 series) are a half face type. I tried the full face, and simply could not see what I was doing.
 
So how often do you change the filters? I have a 3M half mask with I believe P100 filters. It fits well (I think) and I've been using the same filter for a while now.
 
Listen to Ed I am a firm believer in saftey first. I use the 3m 6800 very simular to the one Ed uses but full face I use the organic/ charcoal filter good for some gas and all partical . My mask cost me 75 dollars and the replacement cartridge is 18 dollars. The filter needs to be changed when it fails a simple test. Plug the exhaust and if its holding air its still working as far as the seal goes . . If your grinding every day Ide say change at least once a month . You will notice it gets harder to breath, they can not be cleaned . I also have a 3m half mask and they work well but then goggles for eye protection are needed . Kellyw
 
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I wear a full helmet and face shield that includes a fan and filter unit. It seals around my neck and continuously blows filtered air down keeping the face shield from fogging.

ernie
 
Plenty of good info in this thread.
I notice that these types of threads tend to have the same types of questions arise on a consistent basis.


The typical arrangement for nearly all negative pressure (naturally-aspirated) cartridge respirators is to have an intake port(s) and an exhaust port. One-way "flap" valves at each port allow the proper direction of airflow.
The exhaust valve opens only during exhalation, meaning that any inhaled air comes only through the filters. The intake valve(s) opens only during inhalation, ensuring reasonable filter cartridge life (if the design allowed both inhaling and exhaling through the filters, then filter life expectancy would be very low).


For those who are completely new to the idea of using a respirator, the first thing to realize is that no matter what type, brand, or expense of the apparatus, all is for naught if it is not sealed properly around your face.
There are several ways to check for proper sealing, but the most effective method is to tightly place the palm of your hand over the exhaust port of the respirator, then attempt to exhale. If the respirator is properly sealed, exhalation will require some effort. Of course, this assumes the one-way intake valves are in proper working order.
The respirator will want to bulge outwards away from your face as the exhaled air tries to find an escape route.
If it is properly sealed and you exhale with enough force, the seal will eventually break free from your face and the exhaled air escapes wherever the seal breaks. Most of the time this emits a sound similar to flatulence (keeping in mind this is a G-rated forum, of course!).


Partial "half mask" or full-face? This is dependent upon both personal preference and working conditions, but something to consider is that most conditions hazardous to the lungs can also be hazardous to the eyes. For purposes of this discussion, the referred-to conditions would include particulate dusts such as metal, wood, etc.
For years, the use of prescription eyeglasses prevented me from using a full-face respirator. Several cases of noninfectious conjunctivitis and eventually a scarred cornea prompted me to find a better solution.
Contact lenses in combination with the full-face seemed to be the answer, but, in my case anyways, the confines of the respirator caused the contacts to quickly dry out.
Fortunately, the manufacturer offered an accessory for eyeglass wearers that holds a pair of lenses bridged between the nosepiece and top inside the faceshield.
If your personal preference, budget, or conditions (especially use of peripheal vision) favor a half mask (covers mouth and nose only), at least consider using safety goggles as a method of sealing the eyes.


What type of cartridges to use? Probably the question asked most frequently. Naturally, it depends on what it is you're trying to filter from the air you're breathing.
Knifemakers can expose themselves to all sorts of stuff that has long-term effects.
Our immediate concerns focus on the particulates such as wood dust, metal dust, abrasives, etc., as these seem to be the most obvious.
Depending upon production volumes, workshop conditions, and personal sensitivities, other items besides particulate dusts can also be a concern. Examples would be constant exposure to fumes, particularly epoxies. If you're the type who spends an entire day making several sets of "homemade micarta", you know what I'm talking about. For those who do a lot of machine work, having surrounding air constantly saturated by an oil mist can sometimes present problems.


Although it goes against my grain to recommend this particular manufacturer, 3M has a selection process to help narrow the selection:http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Health/Safety/Resources/Four/

The most reliable source of accurate info is to go directly to those whose occupations require respirator usage. But the local GE plant probably isn't going to take you on a guided tour to learn about respirators.:biggrin:
A better solution for the average individual is to visit someplace like a local body shop and talk to the guys there.
Industrial supply houses are usually a good source, but the better ones are those who tend to specialize in safety equipment.

Finally, a dedicated paint supplier (Sherwin Williams, Porter, ICI, Benjamin Moore, etc.) will be considerably more knowledgeable than the local hardware store/home center. One phone call or visit to the store telling them what you're working with, and they'll tell you exactly what you need.
Plus the fact that they have a direct link to the manufacturer. This is not to be overlooked, because it can save endless hours of research on the subject, and it allows them to obtain anything you need, rather than compromising for whatever happens to be on the shelf.
 
GADS ED..ouch..your example one hard to beat..i wish more read what you have wrote..

i myself will not allow anyone in my shop not to have a mask on..PERIOD...I am working on a seperate grinding room ill put in ducking etc etc so not to have it float all over/or contamanate different area..sometimes just a simple paint bush on to of grinder readuce what you get in your face as the belt goes around.

I like and use a north half mask and i just got there full face one with two hoses that go over your shoulder to a pair of HEPA filters.i like that idea as it moves my air supply away from what im working on...a good hepa filter fullfills most of what we do..I forge in mine and do most things..DO NOT GET THE CHeap trash..whats your life worth? ither of these mask/resperators are very little $$$ and i bought mine at "AIRGAS" which are all over...remember alot of what we do acumulates in our body only to come back and get us later in life so do everything you can to protect your lungs..im 65 and plan on doing this many many more years..ok im a huge saftey freak but im still here where others are not....as ed said just look at your face after working and see the crap.....i learned to bladesmith and at the abs school i was the only one out of 12 to just wear a cheapo cotton mask..you not belive the junk i pervented...(in fact im in the book (dbi/ken warners )knifemaking 1st edtion in the forgeing sect with a mask on lol)and that was back in 1988 ..im still here..lungs are good..ok i know it can get hot at times with a mask...but ill ive with it,thou i have thought about the mask with a air input hose...

thank you for trying to help your self do things right,so many let ego or macho ideas get in there ways to do things safe...
 
look at my avatar its a north backpath adator #bp1002 can be used with a half mask as you see or a full face
 
My recommendation is to stay clear of those "cheap" respirators like you would find at most hardware outlets/stores. Those are generally the ones with plastic face pieces...they WILL NOT seal against your face, and most of the time the protection they provide is next to nothing.

I can tell you that from experience. I used them for a lot of years (the cheap respirators), thinking I was OK. Less than three years ago the Docs discovered a tumor on my right lung, and when it was all said and done, the biopsy showed iron, calcium (stags and ivories), and synthetics (Micarta/G10). I spent 8 weeks recovering from having a chunk of my right lung removed! During that time I did a lot of research on respirators...I chose to go with the 3M 7500 series respirators....mainly because of the silicone face piece that seals well, even with facial hair. This mask uses the P100 type filters. The 7500 series comes in three sizes: 7501= small, 7502= medium, 7503=large. Of course no respirator is any good unless you wear it! Since my lung situation, I have "hooks" hanging in front of the machines in my shop, and each has a respirator hanging from it....positioned in just such as manner that you have to through the mask, in order to get to the machine.

DO NOT goof around with cheap respirators!! I did, and it cost me $65,000 in medical bills, 8 weeks sitting in a recliner recovering, and a chunk of my right lung! Had it not been for the simple grace of God, it's likely that the tumor would not have been found until it was too late.

I was glad when I read that you chose the 7500 series. I too have done a lot of research into the respirators and found the 7500 series to be affordable, comfortable and they seal great. They also have filters that are affordable as well.

To answer an earlier question the filters recommend replacement after 8 hrs of continual use. You could probably figure in a safety factor of 50% to 100% so that is not unreasonable.

I was extremely sorry to hear about your situation on the lungs but glad that you told us because it re-affirms my commitment to utilize the respirators. Thank You
 
Thanks Ed for the story. I have yet to make knife 1 and have a respirator on order. For you guys with a lifetime of knowledge us newbies can stand to learn a lot about the skill set but most importantly the safety aspect. Thanks
 
To test for proper seal, there are two tests.
As rob45 wrote, there is the positive pressure test, when you place your hand on the exhaust port and pressurize the mask.
There is also a negative or vacuum test, when you block the inlet port and suck air in, pulling the mask into your face.
Those two tests will quickly tell you if you have a good seal.
As far a facial hair, a stubble will often seal worse than a beard. A short beard or Van Dyke(spelling?) might be fine if the mask has a deep chin opening. Big side burns probably wont allow a good seal.
The 3m masks are well made.
Fred
 
I am looking for a respirator that will work for standard handle material/ steel grinding. I have little money ATM but do not want to risk not having one.

Any suggestions on an affordable respirator to buy? I have looked around some but would like to know what makers with more experience use.

go to hardware store or walmart and get throw-away kind and wear it. usually 3 for $7. save pennies for better one. if you are going to get one with disposable filters, they come in sizes so you need to make sure it fits well. you also need to be clean shaved to get a good fit and for maximum effectiveness.
 
I agree that the cheap stuff is no damn good, but the good stuff is so cheap there is no reason to ignore it.




I'm sensitive to dust and chemical vapour, so I have experiences that have shown me that quality and fit are vital.


I use a North because the soft silicone fits better than the hard plastic of the others.

You can shave a goatee to fit, but stubble will destroy a fit.
some recommend a smear of Vaseline to form a gasket, but it's easier to shave


There are 3 sizes, buy one in person at a safety supplier and get it fitted and learn how to do the seal checks


The minimum I would consider are silicone half masks with a P100 Filter
3M 7500

and North 7700

Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for protection against acetone and solvents.
Prefilters can snap over the main filter for longer life.

For beards, pick one of these
3M PAPR
Resp-O-Rator
3m Breathe Easy
Trend Airshield Pro
Air Cap II
 
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