Steel Choice?? What would you do?

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OkieCowboy

Well-Known Member
ok old Dogs..needing a bit of advice... I have been doing my research and learning...but.. ( and yes I did search here)

I want to make a Cleaver for my next project.. I do alot of outdoor "cowboy cooking" and use cleavers heavily, like people would a chefs knife and regular cleaver duties, so natural I want to make one..

I read up as to what is normally used for kitchen cutlery but with my chuckwagon style, looking for something with a higher carbon content this will be less about the impact and more knife use..however.. it will still be used some as a cleaver.

limitations are : Stock removal method.. limited tools....limited skill

I will send it out for heat treating, but may have to ask where to send it

also once decided what to use...the question comes...where to get it... I see knife size bar stock sold..by that I mean 2" width but when you need larger pieces where do you turn? other than big sheet stuff

Again..I can't thank the Community of the Forum here enough...though I may not be known by anyone..this is the first place I come read when I turn on the computer for the day.. looking at what everyone else has done.. learning from the wisdom of others..even when you don't think your passing any on...
I feel like I am coming to school every day and ya'll are teachers

so thanks to everyone
 
Okie,
Bossdog right here at the top of the page has many steels for sale. This gent from N.J. http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/ has a wide range of steels. I buy a lot from http://www.nsm-ny.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=page.display&page_id=26 This is CPM steel headquarters! I buy a half or whole sheet at a time but they do sell smaller billets too.

For big cleavers I use 440C or CPM-154 and I have sent my knives for HTing to Paul Bos at Buck knives for about 15 years. They will do single blades as well.http://www.buckknives.com/about-knives/heat-treating/ Strangely enough, there are two men names Paul Bos that do metal Hting,
You want the company at Buck knives in that link.

Did you have a stainless steel in mind for this Cleaver project?
 
Rhino
thanks for that info..the half sheet would be about what I was looking for..I would hate to buy a sheet until I find out if I like the steel..
I was actually leaning more towards a non stainless or something that at least "looked" non stainless..I have been considering 1095 but read that not the easiest to send just anywhere and get HT done with it? ( again thats why i ask here) perhaps I should explain more...when people hire me to cook..I dress in late 1800's clothing.. cook with 1870-1900's kitchen setup, etc...and I teach a few classes this way and nothing looks more out of place than someone pulling out a mirror finish sabatier.

I have been using a bevy of vintage ones that I collect..but again, at some point the risk of damage to a vintage cleaver is going to outweigh the desire to look good... so I am wanting to perhaps build a high speed low drag, souped up, modern day, lean, mean chopping machine that looks home on the range.... if that makes a lick of sense to ya....

perhaps it's more about the finsh and not the steel i should be thinking?
 
I would use either 1075 or 5160. After making the blade, etch it for a forced patina finish. That would give it an aged look. The 5160 is very tuff carbon steel and has good edge retention. Most ABS Performance Test blades are made from it. I have made a clever or two out of both of these steels with no issues. I got mine from the New Jersey Steel Baron, Aldo. Call and ask about the size you need. He has a sub forum on this site.
 
For carbon steel, I buy O1 tool steel mostly from Enco. Get on their email list and they'll send out special discounts all the time. For November, they have 10% off and free shipping for orders over $99. Just a quick search, with what I would imagine you would use resulted in this below. That would be enough for 2 cleavers. Of course, if you're thinking thinner or narrower the price would go down. www.use-enco.com

Oil-Hardening Flat Stock; System of Measurement: Inch; Thickness (Inch): 3/16; Width (Inch): 6; Length (Inch): 18; Material: Tool Steel; Material Specification: AISI Type O1 Oil Hardening
Width (Inch): 6
Length (Inch): 18
Thickness (Inch): 3/16
Material Grade: AISI Type O1
Width Tolerance: +.005-.000
Length Tolerance: +.062
Thickness Tolerance: Œ.001
Square Tolerance: +or-.001
Model #416-0323
Low Price: $57.93 ea
Availability: In Stock
 
If there is a discussion on steel going on somewhere, my radar will pick it up. If you're wanting to stick with carbon (in your case I would not use stainless....especially since it sounds like you are into the late 19th century vibe), you have many choices, as you no doubt know already. You mentioned cleaver, but not too much chopping going to be done. I would probably be inclined to go with 5160 for any knife that is going to see chopping. However, if not a whole lot of chopping is going on, 52100 would probably be my top pick. It is higher in carbon content, and heat treated correctly is a VERY tough steel that holds an edge like nobody's business. 52100 would be my choice, as long is no super heavy duty chopping is done. Also, during construction, remember Roman Landes and his axiom......."Geometry cuts, heat treat (and thus steel type) determines how long." So be sure to pay attention to the edge geometry, and shape it as needed for it's intended use.
 
I suggest finding out where you are going to have it heat-treated, and then choose your steel accordingly. There are a few places that won't treat oil-hardening steels.
 
I'd suggest one of my favorites- D2. It takes a lot of abuse and holds an edge well. It has a higher chromium content but not quite 'stainless', so I think maintenance will be a bit easier but you can get some patina on it if you desire.
My favorite HT, and he does a great job witht eh D2, is Lee Oates of Bearclaw knives
http://www.bearclawknives.com/

Alpha Knife Supply usually has a good stock of it in different sizes
 
I second the D2 holding an edge. Im still learning about all the ins and outs of knifemaking but I still attempt to make sharp useful things that look like knives. The old planer blades Im using to fund my actual steel purchase take an edge and have held an edge to skin 3 elk and 2 deer before needing touch up sharpening. The first one I made was used to skin and slightly bone a buffalo and held an edge till the attempt to bone it.
 
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