stag and antler

tmr

Well-Known Member
I have a question about stabilizing antler handles.....I have used moose and deer antler for many years without stabilizing.....I was looking today at some antique knives from the 18 and 19 hundreds with antler handles that are still good...is it a good idea to stabilize or not.....i sent a friend a moose antler handle that he stabilized with cactus juice and i don't like how it looks....feedback appreciated
 
Curious did he color the Cactus Juice? Because most everything I've stabilized with un-colored CJ looks pretty much the same? The thing I like about stabilizing antlers is the pith in the center is what really soaks it up! You could almost do the same thing with a thin CA glue. I would only do that if the antler was used on a full tang knife though. That way you would be sure to get the glue to go the entire lenth of the handle.
 
You don't need to stabilize them but doesn't hurt to seal them. I use boiled linseed oil. I don't do slab handles, I only do threw tangs.
 
I've used 50/50 BLO and Mineral Spirits per a John Cohea recipe on some antler. Just left the piece in a jar for a day or so, then let it sit to cure for another couple days. I've also used this on some Giraffe scales as a test. I wouldn't call it stabilization in the modern sense though. I think it seals a lot of the pores. I didn't think it changed the color too much, but then I was looking for an antique look anyway.
 
I have a question about stabilizing antler handles.....I have used moose and deer antler for many years without stabilizing.....I was looking today at some antique knives from the 18 and 19 hundreds with antler handles that are still good...is it a good idea to stabilize or not.....i sent a friend a moose antler handle that he stabilized with cactus juice and i don't like how it looks....feedback appreciated
I collect daggers, hunting knives and cutlery from the 1850's or so to the 1960's or so and all I do with the stag handles when I aquire them is give them a few hours with a good coat of mineral oil. Then I wipe off all I can and let them sit overnight and wipe them again. After that a few applications of microcrystalline wax (Renissance) and in years I've not had any problems.
I believe that with newer stock if it's aged somewhat, nothing is needed. I give the old ones the treatment to try to insure longevity once I'm gone. If they are new and were sheds sitting in the woods exposed to the sun or I use them, I give them my treatment to give a little protection from food/blood stains etc.
 
I don’t think it is necessary, but it probably doesn’t hurt. I do it to mine, by filling the drilled cavity with a clear coat epoxy, and running it through the vac chamber, then dumping the excess out after it’s sucked in. I don’t use CJ because it is heat cured, and that much heat can make antler crack and warp. Plenty of examples that are hundreds of years old that have survived well, I think it’s fine if you don’t do it at all.
 
thanks for the feed back guys.....one thing I should add is that I use a lot of the fighting points from large moose antlers and they are solid with no pith at all.....also the bases close to the skull as they are as solid as ivory also....deer antler is mostly stick tang or thru tang
 
thanks for the feed back guys.....one thing I should add is that I use a lot of the fighting points from large moose antlers and they are solid with no pith at all.....also the bases close to the skull as they are as solid as ivory also....deer antler is mostly stick tang or thru tang
Tmr, where do you find your moose antler? I like using it too, but I’ve been buying mine off flint knapping suppliers. It’s kinda hit or miss
 
Tmr, where do you find your moose antler? I like using it too, but I’ve been buying mine off flint knapping suppliers. It’s kinda hit or miss
sorry about the delay in response i have been away.....I live in thunder bay ontario......moose antler is not a problem at all to secure......a lot of my customers bring me some as i always repair and sharpen for free
 
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