Slip Joint Spring-How Strong?

C

Crockett

Member
I’ve never had the chance to handle a custom or even a high end production slip joint, just the old pocket knives floating about that we all run into. I’ve made some slip joints and it seems that each one I make, I make the spring a little stronger on. The one I’m working on now, I’ve thought maybe the spring is too strong but this weekend I had the opportunity to examine two Case/Bose knives. I was quite surprised at how strong the springs were, in fact to the point where it seemed (to me anyway) difficult to pull the blade out of the handle and while they had a good snap going into the open, half stop and closed positions it seemed to me that it took quite a bit of force to move the blade between positions. I guess I’ve aimed for a good strong snap but still an easy-rotating blade (if that makes any sense) in the knives I’ve made. I’ve also seen some custom knives on the net that are accompanied by a separate custom tool used to engage the nail nick and pull the blade open. Apparently these knives have quite a strong spring.

So I wonder, what is “usual and customary” for a custom-made slip joint? What are the expectations users and collectors have? I understand, one 20 or 30 year old man’s “just right” may be another 70 year old lady with arthritis’s “can’t get it open” but still I wonder what most people’s preference is as far as a custom? I want to try to make stuff that folks are happy with...
 
I have seen some knives that would break my nail trying to get them open. I leave them on the counter. I like an easy opening knife, hence my preference for liner locks. Ever see an old person trying to open a child proof medicine bottle.... than's me trying to open a slip joint with a strong spring ;^)

ernie balch
 
The biggest difference in custom slipjoints is that they are smooth and strong. Even though it sounds like it, that is not a contradiction. The key is getting the tang worked out perfect so that the opening is smooth so that even with a stronger spring the knife is still relatively easy to open. This is also where the walk and talk comes in to play. With a weaker spring you just dont get a good walk and talk. Think of most factory knives, most dont have that satisfying "snap" when they are closed. We see alot of custom makers that rate the "pull" on a scale from 1 to 10, with a 1 meaning the knife will not stay closed and a 10 meaning it wont open. Most customs are between 5 to 7. Most factory knives are between 3 to 5. Even this is not an exact science, take your 20 year old vs. 70 year old example. The pull is going to be relative to the person opening the knife.

As for knives coming with a tool to open them, well I wouldnt want to spend money on that knife.

Sean
 
Thanks to both of you for your input. The numbering system helps me get a better understanding of it.
I need to get to some shows and get more exposure to customs. All those old factory knives I mentioned are just kind of mushy, no real snap even when cleaned up well and lubed.
 
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