Silver Solder or JB Weld Hidden Tang Guard?

johnnyjump

johnnyjump

Well-Known Member
Coming to the end of my Bowie Knife Build, and trying to decide whether to silver solder the Nickel Silver Guard or secure it with JB Weld before I pin and epoxy the Antler Crown Handle. I'm leaning toward silver soldering the guard, but have not had much experience with A2 steel, which is what the blade is made from. It's an air-cooled hardened steel, with the tempering heat range between 350 and 500 degrees. I'm concerned that heating the guard up to in order to get the solder to flow would ruin the temper on the blade. I've heard plenty of makers swear by JB Weld, but it seems to me silver solder would provide for a more secure joint. I would welcome anyone's opinions. Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9385.jpg
    IMG_9385.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 14
I’ve read in this forum and other forums as well that JB Weld is perfectly fine for securing the guard.
I believe OldKnife solders his guards on.
 
I remember Ed C saying that epoxy is fine if the fit is good. Some guys have a sloppy fit and try to cover it with solder. If you have a screw or nut pulling the entire stack up together it makes sense to epoxy all at once. Then you don't have your handle fighting your guard.
 
If the fit is already seamless then JB Weld is perfect because all you’re trying to do is avoid water / moisture intrusion and make it all solid. that’s my view. JB Weld works like a champ on metal to metal bonding.
 
The fit is pretty seamless, but not what I would call a tight fit. I lost a little tightness fling the inside shoulders of the guard to match the slope of the shoulder on the blade. I tried the technique of giving the guard a blow with the hammer while on the tang, but apparently the guard is too stout to bend.
 
opaul said:
I’ve read in this forum and other forums as well that JB Weld is perfectly fine for securing the guard.
I believe OldKnife solders his guards on.
Click to expand...
I’ve read that too. It would certainly be easier and less risky than soldering.
 
Smallshop said:
I remember Ed C saying that epoxy is fine if the fit is good. Some guys have a sloppy fit and try to cover it with solder. If you have a screw or nut pulling the entire stack up together it makes sense to epoxy all at once. Then you don't have your handle fighting your guard.
Click to expand...
I do have a pin and epoxy holding the whole thing together, which should suffice. Just wanting to be doubly sure the guard isn’t going to ever move.
 
If there is any visible gap you're going to see the color of whatever you put in there as well...silver solder is pretty bright and shiny, and jb weld is dull and grey. Just another thing to consider, but both will work fine. Like was said before, the biggest thing its doing is making sure moisture isn't getting in that would cause oxidation
 
Also, to tighten up your gaps, this is what I do. Take a 4 inch piece of 3/16 or 1/4 stainless pin stock and round one end. Put the guard on something solid, I use the small anvil built into my vice. Then I take the rounded pin stock and peen where my gaps are pushing the metal toward the opening. Then back to the grinder to clean the peen marks off the face and refit again...any gaps and I repeat the process.
 
JeremyBartlett said:
Also, to tighten up your gaps, this is what I do. Take a 4 inch piece of 3/16 or 1/4 stainless pin stock and round one end. Put the guard on something solid, I use the small anvil built into my vice. Then I take the rounded pin stock and peen where my gaps are pushing the metal toward the opening. Then back to the grinder to clean the peen marks off the face and refit again...any gaps and I repeat the process.
Click to expand...
Sounds interesting but I’m not following. Where and how are you able to peen the pin stock onto the guard? You don’t have any pics do you?
 
So here are some quick pics. I also use a guard jack to press fit guards. If you're not sure what that is I can show pictures and explain.
 
20210108-144735.jpg


20210108-144752.jpg



20210108-144910.jpg



20210108-150444.jpg


As you see in the last pic...its so tight it's causing the guard to bubble up a little around the slot, which is good...now I'm going to pop it back off and clean up the face and get it to final polish and then ill press it back on.
 
JeremyBartlett said:
So here are some quick pics. I also use a guard jack to press fit guards. If you're not sure what that is I can show pictures and explain.
Click to expand...
Looking for the picks...and yes would like to see your guard Jack. I tried pressing the guard with my large vise but still couldn’t move the metal.
 
JeremyBartlett said:
20210108-144735.jpg


20210108-144752.jpg



20210108-144910.jpg



20210108-150444.jpg


As you see in the last pic...its so tight it's causing the guard to bubble up a little around the slot, which is good...now I'm going to pop it back off and clean up the face and get it to final polish and then ill press it back on.
Click to expand...
Ahh! Now I see. Great little technique! Not sure how much refinishing I can do with guard as my tolerances with the predrilled pin hole are already set and tight.
 
Here is my guard jack setup...piece of metal with a slot for the tang with 2 countersunk holes for the bolts to push against. A larger threaded piece of metal with a slot, and 2 long bolts. Clamp the tang in the vice to hold it and crank the crap out of the bolts until you get the guard on!

20210108-151707.jpg


20210108-151715.jpg
 
johnnyjump said:
Ahh! Now I see. Great little technique! Not sure how much refinishing I can do with guard as my tolerances with the predrilled pin hole are already set and tight.
Click to expand...
If you're are worried about your pin hole location in the tang you can do as someone suggested on here the other day...drill out your pin hole larger and peen some brass into the larger hole and re-drill
 
JeremyBartlett said:
If you're are worried about your pin hole location in the tang you can do as someone suggested on here the other day...drill out your pin hole larger and peen some brass into the larger hole and re-drill
Click to expand...
Hey Jeremy, I really appreciate you taking the time to share some of your techniques! Thanks!
 
If you decide to solder use the StayBrite silver solder, it's fairly low temp and won't mess up the temper in the blade. I sorta like solder, but do agree when everything is properly fitted and epoxied together it will work just fine
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top