Shaping Handles?

Greg Rice

Greg Rice

Well-Known Member
So as I read some of your builds and learn - I think I am going about shaping my handles all wrong. Need your help.

About the only thing I use my stupid 2x42 - 2 million mile per hour belt grinder thingy for is rough shaping my handles - regardless of the material. What I have noticed is:
  • Hurts when I grind my finger
  • Doesn't take too much to take too much
  • I sometimes think I can get it to finished shape - no dumba$$
  • I wish I could s l o w d o w n t h e g r i n d e r
In trying to catch up I have noticed that many of you use rasps and bastard files and then sand. Is that how most of you do it? I assume the rasps are only good for wood - what about micarta and stuff? I know how they do it on FIF - stoopid of me to assume that is 'how it is done'
 
You already know my answer. Rasp, then files, then small riffler files, then sand through the grits starting at 120 then up ,not skipping any grit and changing direction on each one. Finish with Tru-oil.
 
I use a 10" wheel for roughing out if I'm doing a "coke bottle" shape, then move to rasps to get it dialed in closer. After that, it's either hand sanding or some time on a scalloped 1" or 2" belt at 120 grit.
 
opaul said:
For the most part I use my grinder with flat patten, wheel and or slack belt. I do use files and rasps but not much. All this on 120 grit and then hand sand through the various grits.
Click to expand...
This is pretty close to what I do depending on what I am trying to make as a handle. I do use my 12" wheel if im sculpting the handle, then I blend the hard straight lines with slack belt and hand sand.
 
I'm the same as opaul and Gliden. But I also use my mini wheel for handle shaping, mainly to get the "dip" before the butt of the knife.. Then I us files and then hand sanding to finish up. Using my grinder for the rough stuff means less file work and hand sanding.

A 2x72 with a VFD goes a long way to stop taking too much material off.
 
I use mostly use my 2x72 to shape the handle, depending on the shape - progressing from flat platen, to an individual rubber contact wheel (3/4"-10") for contour and coke bottle shapes, then to a near-final finish using 1" 220g (progressively higher grit) scalloped belts - very gently - mostly in the top-horizontal slack run of belt - and, reducing the speed to 20-30%. 1" scalloped belts, in a loose slack mode are very helpful in quickly shaping contours, but can wreck a handle quickly with high speed or high grits.
 
Mostly on my small wheel attachment. I also use old belts cut and ripped lengthwise to round off the corners on the spine and belly side shoe shine style. Then all sand paper by hand.
 
Here's a version that might work for you, depending on the amps of your grinder.

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I'm sure there are other options with higher amp ratings that would be cheaper than getting a new 2x72 and allow for some sort of variable speed.
I've done this with the porta-band we've got.
But it might also just be worth it to get the HF flex shaft grinder and use the foot pedal they have. Then you have another tool to use.
 
I use a lot of different tools along the way. 6x48 Belt/9" disc sander, 1x30 belt sander and drill press with sanding drums for contours have been my workhorses. But one is too aggressive sometimes and the others are slow and frustrating. I also do a lot of Dremel work and filing and hand sanding. This fall I bought a 2x42/6" disc combo sander to replace the 1x30 and haven't used it that much yet. Still hard to do the curved areas with that, so I took my Christmas gift cards and money and ordered a benchtop oscillating spindle sander. Just pulled it out of the box today and haven't got it set up yet... Could I have waited and bought a 2x72 "Grinder"? Probably, but I'm not sure I need that level of commitment since I'm not grinding blades.
I have only done handles on full tang blades, which gives me a good centerline reference. But I still struggle to get the thickness equal on both sides, and sometimes the blade is not exactly vertical/perpendicular compared to the top and bottom of the handle when looking at it from the butt end. Practice and patience I guess. Good luck!
 
Greg Rice said:
So as I read some of your builds and learn - I think I am going about shaping my handles all wrong. Need your help.

About the only thing I use my stupid 2x42 - 2 million mile per hour belt grinder thingy for is rough shaping my handles - regardless of the material. What I have noticed is:
  • Hurts when I grind my finger
  • Doesn't take too much to take too much
  • I sometimes think I can get it to finished shape - no dumba$$
  • I wish I could s l o w d o w n t h e g r i n d e r
In trying to catch up I have noticed that many of you use rasps and bastard files and then sand. Is that how most of you do it? I assume the rasps are only good for wood - what about micarta and stuff? I know how they do it on FIF - stoopid of me to assume that is 'how it is done'
Click to expand...

Since I got a good grinder I haven't tried any contours. But I was cutting away what I didn't want and sand like you were saying. I found coarse round and half round did a nice job on micarta. It's just canvas and glue and easy to take off too much that way. I don't know what they did on FIF, I just grabbed what I had.
 
Greg Rice said:
So as I read some of your builds and learn - I think I am going about shaping my handles all wrong. Need your help.

About the only thing I use my stupid 2x42 - 2 million mile per hour belt grinder thingy for is rough shaping my handles - regardless of the material. What I have noticed is:
  • Hurts when I grind my finger
  • Doesn't take too much to take too much
  • I sometimes think I can get it to finished shape - no dumba$$
  • I wish I could s l o w d o w n t h e g r i n d e r
In trying to catch up I have noticed that many of you use rasps and bastard files and then sand. Is that how most of you do it? I assume the rasps are only good for wood - what about micarta and stuff? I know how they do it on FIF - stoopid of me to assume that is 'how it is done'
Click to expand...
I started with a 2x42 and used it for about 2 1/2 years before I broke down and bought a 2x72. It is really fast. You have to use light pressure when grinding to make sure you don't burn anything (including steel!). I mainly used the 2x42 to remove the bulk of the material, then used files and sandpaper to get my final shape and finish.

Now that I have a 2x72 it has greatly changed how I do handles, so I understand where you are coming from. It was hard to pull the trigger on buying a high end grinder, but now I can't imagine not having it.
 
I watched your kith build. You have skills. You play with race cars. That takes money. Maybe I'm out of bounds, but.... spend money on the new love. 2X72 and use scalloped belts.
 
I slack belt almost all of the sides. Top are ran on a ten inch wheel to smooth. Bottom curves are ran on 3 inch wheel or 1 1/2 slack wheel set up.
I normally run to 400 grit then hand sand up to 600-1000 grit.
 
Lately mostly for dust control I've been using a oscillating bench top sander. With a shop vac hooked up it works great with dust control. It came with wheels from 2" down to 1/2" diameter. Sanding drums are expensive but not necessary. A tip I learned on here or another knife forum was to cut and wrap standard sanding paper paying attention to direction and use a band of blue painter tape just at the top. A piece of sanding paper cut in half works for mine. When it's wore simply untape and rewrap exposing fresh sand paper. By using standard sand paper you can go to really fine grit.

Then I made a small down draft table so I can again hook up my shop vac to it. I then use palm sanders if needed. I have a old 1/6th sheet Ryobi palm sander that I love and have used for eons back from my bow building days also. It's no longer made but If it was I'd buy a dozen of them. Awesome little tool.
 
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