Any tips or tricks for screw-on bolsters and handle material? I've got some stag, some 416 stainless, some 3/16 threaded standoffs and some screws. I'm thinking mock the whole thing up with 3/32 pins, not glued. Then drill out the tang holes for the standoffs, then heat treat. Then prep the handle material, countersunk on the outside for the screws, countersunk a little on the inside for the standoffs. If I mock it with the 3/32 holes, those holes should serve as pilots to keep my bigger holes aligned, correct?
screw on bolsters and handle material?
- Thread starter jkf96a
- Start date
Lagrange
Well-Known Member
I've never done handles the way you are describing but I can see what you are saying.
Obviously you want to drill the mounting holes in the tang and then match the holes on your handle material. You can do like you said and using small pins for your mock up. But instead of countersinking the inside holes for the standoffs you will probably get better results using a counterbore bit. Tracy sells a bunch of different counterbores you can choose the one you need. The trick is going to be getting the stag material flat on the outer surface of the material so you can counterbore the interior face for your standoff. Its difficult to tell you exactly how to do that without having the exact material in hand. But with a little finesse you should be able to get it done.
The rest of your idea sounds good.
Countersink the outer holes for flat headed or radiused headed screws, or countersink them for a flush mount button or cap headed screws
I sure would like to see your end results.
Blessings,
Eric
Obviously you want to drill the mounting holes in the tang and then match the holes on your handle material. You can do like you said and using small pins for your mock up. But instead of countersinking the inside holes for the standoffs you will probably get better results using a counterbore bit. Tracy sells a bunch of different counterbores you can choose the one you need. The trick is going to be getting the stag material flat on the outer surface of the material so you can counterbore the interior face for your standoff. Its difficult to tell you exactly how to do that without having the exact material in hand. But with a little finesse you should be able to get it done.
The rest of your idea sounds good.
Countersink the outer holes for flat headed or radiused headed screws, or countersink them for a flush mount button or cap headed screws
I sure would like to see your end results.
Blessings,
Eric