Ribbon Burner Forge
- Thread starter AkWildman
- Start date
good video.
I really need to finish my ribbon burner. I have the metal shell already and the castable. I need to go to get a fist full of straws and get it done.
I have been saving a small propane tank for this. Is the valve on the top right hand or left hand threads - do you recall?
I really need to finish my ribbon burner. I have the metal shell already and the castable. I need to go to get a fist full of straws and get it done.
I have been saving a small propane tank for this. Is the valve on the top right hand or left hand threads - do you recall?
AkWildman
Well-Known Member
Tracy are you referring to the needle valve ? If so the actual valve is left handed as in clockwise to shut off and counter clockwise to open,the valve body itself is standard 1/4 mpt and 1/4 ftp .
no, I should have been a bit more clear. I am talking about removing the open/close valve on top of the typical bbq propane tank before cutting it.
Wayne Coe
Forum Owner - Moderator
That Is the most complicated way that I have seen to set up a Ribbon Burner forge. But it is one way to do it and it is not "wrong".
1st there should be a ball valve just before the needle valve for fast on/off
2nd all connections can easily be made with npt parts readily available at any hardware store. No soldering.
3rd use the correct regulator. You should not have the problems described in the video. Once you have adjusted the air/gas mixture there should be very little need to adjust the air/gas mixture. I only adjust the needle valve when I want to reduce or increase the temp in the forge.
4th no need for a "mixer" if you just run the gas directly into the larger pipe (air/gas )you will get plenty of mixing
5th ALL WAYS turn the gas on/off valve all the way on.
6th remember that Propane is heavier than air. Natural gas is lighter than air.
If Propane turn the blower on first. If natural gas don't worry about it unless the blower is plumbed above the gas inlet.
I run my forge at .5 pounds of pressure for forge welding, with no flux. I do use a pyrometer to 2015degrees with the dragon's breath extending about 6" out of the forge.
Let me know if I can help you. You can find my contact information on my Profiles page. I prefer e-mails.
Wayne
1st there should be a ball valve just before the needle valve for fast on/off
2nd all connections can easily be made with npt parts readily available at any hardware store. No soldering.
3rd use the correct regulator. You should not have the problems described in the video. Once you have adjusted the air/gas mixture there should be very little need to adjust the air/gas mixture. I only adjust the needle valve when I want to reduce or increase the temp in the forge.
4th no need for a "mixer" if you just run the gas directly into the larger pipe (air/gas )you will get plenty of mixing
5th ALL WAYS turn the gas on/off valve all the way on.
6th remember that Propane is heavier than air. Natural gas is lighter than air.
If Propane turn the blower on first. If natural gas don't worry about it unless the blower is plumbed above the gas inlet.
I run my forge at .5 pounds of pressure for forge welding, with no flux. I do use a pyrometer to 2015degrees with the dragon's breath extending about 6" out of the forge.
Let me know if I can help you. You can find my contact information on my Profiles page. I prefer e-mails.
Wayne
AkWildman
Well-Known Member
First off Wayne I didn't think it was all that complicated,I have a 1/4 inch ball valve in hand for the quick gas shut off and as far as the pressure regulator valve being a problem it's not I was just pointing out that it has a check valve in it .Someone might think they have a bad regulator without this info.And besides as Elvis once said I Did It My Waaaaay !
I think Tracy is talking about the whole valve on top: right or left threads when unscrewing it off the tank? I've done it twice but can't remember either.
AkWildman
Well-Known Member
Oh I got it now ! The main propane tank valve has right handed thread's, I had to ratchet strap my tank to a tree and use a 3 foot pipe wrench to get it to turn lol.
Mine was a bear, too. Only I tied it to a heavy table round and round with 1/2" rope and tied it from both direction from the handle on the bottle.
You ever hear of putting water in the tank before grinding on it? Do people mean empty the water back out and cut it or cut it while it's still full of water. My friend helped me build my forge and I didn't see what he did when he cut out the fire hole. I could ask him but he moved out of state and I lost his new number.
You ever hear of putting water in the tank before grinding on it? Do people mean empty the water back out and cut it or cut it while it's still full of water. My friend helped me build my forge and I didn't see what he did when he cut out the fire hole. I could ask him but he moved out of state and I lost his new number.
AkWildman
Well-Known Member
I took the valve out and left it breath for a couple of days,then I filled it with water and dumped it out and let it breath for another day,I would suggest filling it with water when you make your first cut,that being said with the valve out it won't blow up but may ignite as mine did ,I laid it on its side and put a torch to the opening and it went whoosh like a rocket and shot across the ground about 3 feet.