Recovering Damascus pattern on spine

K

KentuckyFisherman

Well-Known Member
I put some nice maple burl handles on a stubby Damascus skinner blank. The blank is thick, at least 1/8", I'd say without going and measuring. The spine and entire edge had good Damascus pattern, as does the blade. In the process of adding scales, I polished the edge of the blank where it meets the scales.

Now, I'm wondering if there's a way to re-etch that polished spine so that the pattern shows again. Can this be done? Would the acid change the wood scales? Is there a way to bring the pattern back out without ruining the finished scales?

Thanks for any help, even if the answer is no.
 
I agree with John. I've done this in the past on some stonewashed knives. The acid will turn anywhere it touches the wood a little black, but with a q-tip you should be able to get pretty close. You could put a line of finger nail polish on the wood as a barrier, and remove it after with some acetone.
 
Would the acid change the wood scales? Is there a way to bring the pattern back out without ruining the finished scales?
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As long as the Maple Burl is stabilized, no worries. If it's not, then there could be big issues.... even if you've finished the scale with some type of sealer/finish, you'd have to be VERY careful about how "wet" you make the Q-Tip..... too much and the maple will "wick" the ferric into it. Usually if this happens, it leaves an ugly yellow stain that just isn't coming out.

This is one of those scenarios in building a knife, where you have think it all the way through before starting, and often need to make some design changes to accommodate what you'd like to do. In this case, in order to have the tang/spine etched, I would have used folder pivots and screws to attached the handle material, then shape/finish the handle before etching the blade, remove the scales, etch/finish the blade, then re-attach the scales. Sounds like a lot, but it's really just using a different handle mounting system, and doing what's necessary for it.
 
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EdCaffreyMS said:
As long as the Maple Burl is stabilized, no worries. If it's not, then there could be big issues.... even if you've finished the scale with some type of sealer/finish, you you'd have to be VERY careful about how "wet" you make the Q-Tip..... too much and the maple will "wick" the ferric into it.

This is one of those scenarios in building a knife, where you have think it all the way through before starting, and often need to make some design changes to accommodate what you'd like to do. In this case, in order to have the tang/spine etched, I would have used folder pivots and screws to attached the handle material, then shape/finish the handle before etching the blade, remove the scales, etch/finish the blade, then re-attach the scales. Sounds like a lot, but it's really just using a different handle mounting system, and doing what's necessary for it.
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Man, you one smart GI, sailor ! Thanks alot for that tip. Worth a ton of non-mistakes!
 
Good point - when I've done it it's been with stabilized handle material.

When I've done damascus with stainless bolsters, I've used brass pins and lightly peened them to attach the bolsters. Then after shaping the bolsters and handle material, I remove them, etch the damascus, and reattach them with stainless pins and peen.

Two reasons for the brass - one, it's easier to see exactly where they are when I use a punch to remove them. Two, if I peen a little too hard and they won't punch out, I can carefully drill them out. Since they're softer than the stainless bolster, the drill won't want to wander over into the harder material.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
As long as the Maple Burl is stabilized, no worries. If it's not, then there could be big issues.... even if you've finished the scale with some type of sealer/finish, you'd have to be VERY careful about how "wet" you make the Q-Tip..... too much and the maple will "wick" the ferric into it. Usually if this happens, it leaves an ugly yellow stain that just isn't coming out.

This is one of those scenarios in building a knife, where you have think it all the way through before starting, and often need to make some design changes to accommodate what you'd like to do. In this case, in order to have the tang/spine etched, I would have used folder pivots and screws to attached the handle material, then shape/finish the handle before etching the blade, remove the scales, etch/finish the blade, then re-attach the scales. Sounds like a lot, but it's really just using a different handle mounting system, and doing what's necessary for it.
Click to expand...

If there's one thing I've already learned it's that the best way to avoid a problem or a disaster is to do your best to think the whole project through before starting. Easier said than done. Thanks.
 
When I've done this I used the thin end of a pipe cleaner dipped in the etchant and laid/rubbed along the spine. Took some time but it worked in the end. I also laid some Sellotape style tape over the edge of the wood to protect it. Wasn't easy but did the job. I sometimes use offcuts from the scales grabbed back outta the bin, to test the etchant on, just to see the reaction if it goes under the tape.

The other way I've used is as others have said to shape the scales to the edges of the tang, and finish the scales so the only part left to finish is the centre each side. Then after fixing the scales finish the centre part of them grinding off the corby bolts. Bit of a faff but it works.
 
You can also use finger nail polish as a resist. Paint it up to the steel and if you have a little hit the steel take a brass chisel and scrape it off.It is easily removed with acetone after you are finished.
 
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