Question: Stacked leather knife handle

Mark Behnke

Well-Known Member
What type of leather would be best suited for a stacked handle? High density would seem to be the best, I think, Horse butt?
Sole leather? don't know what type or grade leather that would be, any thoughts ?
Thanks
Mark
 
I have never made one, Mark, but sole bends are probably the most dense leather. It takes a darn good knife just to cut the stuff....it's tough!

Good select veg. tan could fill the bill as well and is probably what is used for most applications.

Paul
 
Mark,

In the few that I've done I just use scrap pieces of 8-9 oz. that are left over from my sheath making (I try not to throw anything away). I pre-shrink them a bit as a pre-emptive measure. When I glue up the handle I put epoxy between each "washer" and after everything is dry and sanded to shape I apply several coats of Tru-oil--the leather just soaks it up.

Here's one I did a couple of years back. Note that you probably want to cut the washers from the same piece of leather. I used leftover pieces from a couple of different hides, and you can see a color difference between the forward most washer and the rest.

DSCN0890.jpg
 
Thanks Paul,NJ
I'll use what's here, rather than buy any more. If dissatisfied, it gives me an excuse to try again, and the more knives I make the more sheaths I get to make.
 
I have sent leather washers to K&G and had them stabalized they work great and don't swell or shrink. They polish out great also.
Cheap to do and worth every penny

Percy
 
I have saved a bunch of scrap planning on playing around with this some day. Question, how do make them? how do you get the hole centered?

I was thinking the best way to make these " leather blanks" would be to draw a circle with a compass, then punch the center hole?

then use a arch punch to cut out the "blanks"?

Then soak the pieces in some type of glue, I was thinking Elmer's glue or polyester resin?

then stack up the pieces using a long bolt fitted with a washers in both sides, washers being the size (or a little bigger) then the leather pieces. Then using a nut on top and cranking the stack down to clamp and compress the stack.

I know that it is not likely that all the center holes I'll be lined up perfectly, but thought that would be fixed at the end by sanding?

To me it sounds like it would work well?? But the more I think about it the more I think it's a hell of a lot of work and there has to be a easer way?

By the way I thinking/ talking about making a long enough piece to make a full handle, say 6" long cylinder, not just a spacer.
 
I have sent leather washers to K&G and had them stabalized they work great and don't swell or shrink. They polish out great also.
Cheap to do and worth every penny

Percy

Also since it came up here I thought is share a little truck I learned with past experiments of mine.

I found a way to stabilize you own wood, HORN!!, or in this case leather. Using a 1/2 gallon madison jar ( I think thats the largest size that is made, if some on knows of a bigger one please let me know), a food saver vacuum packer like this:

http://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-Adv...6?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1334000917&sr=1-6


Fitted with the mansion jar attachment, this one:

http://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-T03-0023-01-Wide-Mouth-Jar-Sealer/dp/B00005TN7H

And Nelsonite wood stabilizer.

http://www.HighTempTools.com/nelsonite.html

Put the wood, horn, or leather in the jar and fill with Nelsonite. Then create a vacuum in the jar with the food saver machine. You will see lots of bubbles coming out of the stuff you put in there, that's air. I leave the jar siting sealed up in a warm place for a day or to just to be safe. When you release the vacuum by opening the jar nature hates a void so all the little holes (the bubbles from before) are "sucked" full of the stabilizer.
 
I have made a stacked leather handle a while ago. I used the threaded bolt and nut press to compress the leather before gluing but I moistened the leather before hand to aid in the compression. I also used wood glue to hold the leather washers together. The result was a solid leather handle. Unfortunately I ruined the knife and guard. The handle was the only thing right with the knife.

BTW, the leather I used was scrap leather which was excess sheath leather. It could have been 8 to 9 oz. The press really compacted the leather down tight and dense, it looked alot thinner than when I started.
 
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Generally, I use 7/8 oz leather that is scrap from my left over sheaths. The pieces are epoxied together and I compress them with a knife clamp and I made especially for leather stacked handles. Epoxy has worked better for me vs. wood glue, but its left up to you! I use Tru-oil to finish the leather handle, same as NJStricker.

leather 2.jpgLeather.jpgClamp.jpg
 
I bought the pre-cut washers from our resident supplier and they worked out great. Plenty big enough for the largest handles, though they might be a bit pricey by some's thinking.

I wetted the washers in clean water and used Gorilla glue to join them. Two or three at a time, I clamped them up between shims and set them aside to dry. Then I took those small stacks and glued them to each other until I had a handle-length that I liked. Any clamp will work because you're not needing a lot of pressure. I liked the Gorilla glue because it swells, insuring that all the nooks and crannies get filled, and sinks into the pores of the leather.

Good Vegetable-tanned leather will compress if you really squeeze it when it's wet... like I did. Do not put the pressure to them in your vice or they will squish to all sorts of shapes and thicknesses.. and this means more work for you. When they say "compressed leather washer" handles, they mean that the leather is pressed together, not squeezed without mercy. Ask me how I learned this!

I would be very curious about stabilizing the leather prior to installation. I have a knife on deck that I've done in leather, but it's not too late to send her off for stabilizing. I was planning on soaking the handle in Thompson's Wood Seal before installing it on the tang, and then give her regular coats of tung oil afterwards. But stabilizing would be more durable, for sure.
 
I make stacked leather handles for my thor hammers. I buy precut and punched leather washers, soak them for days or weeks, use a threaded rod and metal washer to compress them, dry them in the oven on low heat, recompress, dry more, recompress, sand, shape and polish with shoe wax and then wood floor wax.
Totally fantastic finish and durable.
DSC06506.jpgP1020304.jpgDSC06935.jpgDSC06936.jpgP1020038.jpgP1020039.jpgDSC06875.jpgDSC06876.jpgP1020023.jpg

Check some out here. http://www.realthorhammers.com
 
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Im willing to bet it will work with just about anything but suede-- too soft unless you put something on it to harden it.
 
I don't know of this thread's still going or not but I have two knives that I made with leather handles. I put both of them together with Gorilla glue between each layer and then let them dry. I was not able to get a shine out of them, they both had a dull look to them. I'll say this, they are super stabilized from the glue it seems, they don't absorb water at all. My wife put one of them in the dish washer one night and it came out dry.

The reason I'm reading this thread now is that I am doing a leather handle and it will be 100% leather braid. I'm looking for some reassurance that it'll last the test of time, if anybody has an answer (?)

Thanks
 
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