Question on wood
- Thread starter Rick Otts
- Start date
Dennis Morland
KNIFE MAKER
Songdog
If it is dry - it would not necessarily need to be stabilized. I have made several knives with un-stabilized woods. Maple for sure. Never used cherry.
There are several variables to look into when deciding if stabilization is necessary.
End use is one. Are you making a folder, a full tang, a bowie? Lots of pins, no pins, can make a difference. For me, the smaller the piece and the more pins, equals less movement. Others may vary on that issue. . .
Are you using a spacer? I use G10 a great deal and it helps to keep wood from moving around.
Are you using a quality epoxy. This helps to keep wood from moving around.
How are you going to finish the wood?? This can make a difference on whether to have it stabilized. Aqua-fortis on the maple works better without stabilization, IMHO.
Humidity is a killer. Nothing twists and turns wood more than drastic humidity changes. Moisture is another killer. For both the blade and wood handles. Lots of knives get ruined in the dishwasher, bottom of the backpack, or other damp environment, stabilized or not. My point, if you can keep out the humidity/moisture, you can better control the wood from moving. Stabilization will help with this, but not eliminate this problem.
Hope this helps.
DeMo
If it is dry - it would not necessarily need to be stabilized. I have made several knives with un-stabilized woods. Maple for sure. Never used cherry.
There are several variables to look into when deciding if stabilization is necessary.
End use is one. Are you making a folder, a full tang, a bowie? Lots of pins, no pins, can make a difference. For me, the smaller the piece and the more pins, equals less movement. Others may vary on that issue. . .
Are you using a spacer? I use G10 a great deal and it helps to keep wood from moving around.
Are you using a quality epoxy. This helps to keep wood from moving around.
How are you going to finish the wood?? This can make a difference on whether to have it stabilized. Aqua-fortis on the maple works better without stabilization, IMHO.
Humidity is a killer. Nothing twists and turns wood more than drastic humidity changes. Moisture is another killer. For both the blade and wood handles. Lots of knives get ruined in the dishwasher, bottom of the backpack, or other damp environment, stabilized or not. My point, if you can keep out the humidity/moisture, you can better control the wood from moving. Stabilization will help with this, but not eliminate this problem.
Hope this helps.
DeMo
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
I have used natural (Non stabilized) black cherry for handles (customer request). These were fixed blade hunting knives with the scales 3/8" thickness before shaping. I made them here in Florida and the knives were sent to Canada, where they haven't encountered any problems. I made them about a year ago, for what it's worth. The wood was finished with tru oil.
This wood has been cut into boards and sat at the customer's house (dry) in Canada for several years. He sent me some sections of board to make the handles from. Aside from the relative lack of figure, I found cherry to be great to work with for handles.
This wood has been cut into boards and sat at the customer's house (dry) in Canada for several years. He sent me some sections of board to make the handles from. Aside from the relative lack of figure, I found cherry to be great to work with for handles.
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Maple is not a particularly oily wood and would take stabilization. Is it absolutely necessary to stabilize maple...no, it falls into the category of 'should be' stabilized. If its spalted, or burl the I would personally stabilize it for sure. If its run of the mill...then its your choice. I'd cut a piece open and examine the grain. If it seems good and tight I probably wouldn't stabilize it in that case, although I would still likely put a water repellant finish on it like Tru-Oil for instance.
Edit: Forgot to mention the cherry...I've never used cherry for a knife handle and don't think its particularly popular due to its lack of figure. I'll say one thing about it though...its great in the smoker. :9:
Edit: Forgot to mention the cherry...I've never used cherry for a knife handle and don't think its particularly popular due to its lack of figure. I'll say one thing about it though...its great in the smoker. :9:
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scott.livesey
Dealer - Purveyor
i use natural cherry and maple in handles. the wood is light weight and works easily with hand tools and hand sanding. i finish my handles with water based polyurethane for floors, it dries clear and does not color the wood at all. i make cutting boards with maple and cherry that are finished with wax and oil, which darken the wood some.
J. Hoffman
Dealer - Purveyor
It doesn't need to be stabilized, but for the small cost of having it done, I consider it cheap insurance. How long do you want the handle to last and look good?