Question on attaching extension to tang

Gemini

Member
I am a newbie at knifemaking and wanted to try to get some advice from this experienced crowd. I have looked this up on the web with mixed results.

I have a blade from a kit that I need to attach an extension to in order to make the handle long enough for my hand. The tang is 440C stainless, is 1/2" wide and 3/16" thick.

I have a couple of questions. First, what type of weld would you recommend and would you recommend heat treatment after welding? Also, would you recommend a threaded rod to pass through and screw into the pommel or would you weld a flat bar that I can pin to the pommel?

Thank you for your time and response.
 
Mark the outline of the tang on your scale material and then route out the inside of one (thickness of tang)or both scales (1/2 thickness of tang on each half) leaving enough not routed on the butt end to make the handle length you are looking for. Fit it up and glue it up.
 
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Mark the outline of the tank on your scale material and then route out the inside of one (thickness of tang)or both scales (1/2 thickness of tang on each half) leaving enough not routed on the butt end to make the handle length you are looking for. Fit it up and glue it up.
Or this...
 
Mark the outline of the tang on your scale material and then route out the inside of one (thickness of tang)or both scales (1/2 thickness of tang on each half) leaving enough not routed on the butt end to make the handle length you are looking for. Fit it up and glue it up.
opaul,
Thank you. As I mentioned in my reply to Chris, I am trying to go with a stacked leather handle. I guess that this approach won't work with this? Thank you for your reply!
 
The other option is a low temperature silver solder. that way you can extend it however you wish. My personal preferance would be a threaded extension.
Haines Custom,
Thank you for your reply. The tang is not long enough as it is, so I will have to add an extension to it to make it long enough for my desired handle length. I have seen a video where metal is welded to the existing tang (cut into a triangle then the extension formed to fit) then the threaded round stock is welded to this material (a notch cut into the middle of the new material and the rod welded to it, then threaded). Would low temperature silver solder work for this application, or should I be looking at welding this?

Thanks for your reply and any additional time that you might have for my additional quesiton.
 
You can notch the end of the threaded rod and solder it to the end of your tang. I see no reason why this wouldn't work.
I have seen a YouTube video of Bob Dozier doing exactly that! It didn’t look like he was really “adding length” so much as “adding a threaded portion”. I don’t see why it shouldn’t work.
 
235A1E19-0E95-45CE-A40A-4103DE67FFDA.jpeg
this is for a small knife - 3/32 tang and 1/8 rod
i think its good to have three points of contact on the solder joint.
i tried adding a head this time for a little more grip.
i used silver solder that jantz sells. I think It flows at 1200 degrees.
Sorry for being brief - the kids want the computer.
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I would just weld (mig, stick, etc.) whatever length you need onto the existing tang then grind it flat. No need to worry about heat treat in the handle area. Looks to be far enough behind the blade that the welding temp won't affect the blade. Then thread the backend or maybe what you weld on is already threaded.
 
Since the OP is wanting to use a stacked leather handle a full tang of 1/2" is desired. Stick, mig or Tig welding with a steel bar would be my idea of a way to do it. Perhaps after welding, heat the tang to mild red and allow to cool slowly to relieve welding stress. Since there is only a shot section past the weld spot there's not going to be all that much stress on the weld joint so it shouldn't be a problem.

I would NOT use low temp silver solder for attaching a tang extension. Low temp silver solder isn't very strong. works just fine for soldering a guard to the blade, but not for attaching a tang extension. High temp silver solder would be ok for attaching a threaded end for the butt cap as high temp silver solder is much stronger than low temp.
 
A keyhole mechanical connection would allow the use of low temp silver bearing solder and avoid heat concerns. On a HT'd blade, drill the hole in the tang with a tile bit and open up with an abrasive disc.

That said, I'd likely clamp the blade and riccasso in a drill press vise to act as a heat sink, follow the concensus, and TIG weld it.
 
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