Question about finishing scales

Bill Hubbell

Bill Hubbell

KNIFE MAKER
These two are almost there. Just a little more sanding, handle-finish, and touch up the edge. Looking for advice on handle finish. Neither are stabilized. I believe the larger one is burl ambonya, amboyna, ? I don't know what wood the smaller one is- the grain isn't as tight as the ambonya. Neither are stabilized. I'm thinking about Teak oil, at least on the large one. I have never used teak oil before but have wanted to try it . These handles don't need maximum protection like a hunting/camp or combat knife. I'd like fair amount of protection, but not a high gloss. The blades are 1084.
So, any recommendations? Thanks! BillSide View.JPGHandles Spine.JPG PS should I attach smaller pic files in the future?
 
The bottom looks like Rosewood, but I could be wrong.

I am a big fan of TruOil for any material that will take it, but it's a process. If that is Rosewood it probably won't take the TruOil because Rosewood is too oily to absorb it and it and the TruOil won't always cure. Boiled Linseed Oil can be gotten at your local hardware store and looks beautiful. Tung Oil is another that works great and can also be had at the local hardware store.

Linseed Oil is a favorite among gunsmiths and stock makers. You can put on as many or as few coats as you like to get the finish you prefer. Lay the first coat on thick and rub it in really good with your hands. Then take a rag and wipe off all the excess. Let it dry. Once dry, repeat as necessary.

Beautiful knives!
 
The top is amboyna for sure. The bottom one looks like olivewood to me.

I love teak oil and use it almost exclusively. I've used it on both of those woods I mentioned.

I would not be at all surprised if Tru-oil was in fact, teak oil (or teak oil is a major component of Tru-oil) re-labeled, down-sized and drastically marked up in price. The characteristics and use/results of the two oils are remarkably similar but teak oil is WAY cheaper.
 
I agree with J on the oil. Teak oil is the bomb. Looks great, can be allowed to obtain different final finishes depending on how much you put on, tough and easily refurbished later on if needed. Nice work!
 
I have heard that TruOil is Linseed oil and shellac. I don’t know for sure, but it makes sense. A 2oz bottle goes off long before I can use all. I’m going to give teak oil a try.
 
John Wilson said:
I have heard that TruOil is Linseed oil and shellac. I don’t know for sure, but it makes sense. A 2oz bottle goes off long before I can use all. I’m going to give teak oil a try.
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Me too, John. You be the test guy. Let us know. 'specially on kitchen knives.
 
Just a note on "teak oil." There is no standard for what constitutes teak oil. It is a mixture of a thinner and other constituent oils, like boiled linseed and tung, but with the addition of the thinner it penetrates very well, and cures better than the others individually. So you might find some difference from brand to brand. I think I've heard good things about Watco? I've only mixed my own so I can't comment on an off the shelf product, other than it's probably better than what I have mixed. :)
 
Man- thanks for a the quick help! The stuff I had picked up is WATCO brand. You guys filled in the blanks for me. i tried a little on some scraps and it seemed like it was giving the desired look, but looks aren't everything. I think I'll go with it on these two and see how it does.
When I was a kid in junior high wood shop (a looooong time ago), polyurethane hadn't been invented yet (yeah) - I believe we used some shellac, but mostly something we heated in an electric pot.-probably linseed oil?
Anyway, thanks for the compliments on the knives too!
When I get them done I owe at least some pictures to the guy who gave me the amboyna scale blanks on the KD Christmas gift exchange a couple years ago. I'm pretty sure it was Wall-E. ?
 
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