Quench oil

Gliden07

Gliden07

Well-Known Member
I need to get a larger quench tank and was considering getting a real quench oil. What type should I get?? I was looking at the Parks AAA, as I make most of my knives with, 01, 10xx steels and an occasional 5160. I was trying to get some info on Houghton oils also for a comparison. Really can't find anyone who sells it? Everyone seems to use the Parks 50 but the info I've seen with the steel I use seems the AAA would be a better choice and the cost is better! Or do I continue with Canola??
 
I've just hashed through this myself.

My conclusion is this. We really need 2 quenchants. I'm using a 10.2-12.2sec @ 78F oil, which puts it in the "medium" range like AAA or McMaster 11 sec oil on 80CrV2 and 52100 and getting HRC values that are on target for the recipes I'm using. I have a thread in the heat treating forum where Kevin graciously gave me some 'splaining on the oils I had access to.

My understanding of O1 is that you would definitely want the medium oil, but that really is out of range for 10xx steels. Especially 1095. It seems like many are using Parks 50 on stuff like 80CrV2 and 52100. I wonder if they are giving up some toughness.

On whether or not to go to a commercial quenchant, absolutely. Yes.

And go bigger on the quench tank. I switched up from 1 1/2 gal to 3 gallon. So much better. It's just a 5" x 24" piece of SCH 10 sst pipe on a 1/2" plate for a base, and another for a lid.

I'm no pro. Just my thoughts on your question based on my limited understanding of quenchants.

Edit: I misrepresented the speed of my current oil with a typo.
 
Last edited:
Consider a turkey fryer for a quench tank. They have enough depth for most blades and plenty of volume. Also the burner can be use to warm the oil.

Doug
 
Gliden07 said:
I need to get a larger quench tank and was considering getting a real quench oil. What type should I get?? I was looking at the Parks AAA, as I make most of my knives with, 01, 10xx steels and an occasional 5160. I was trying to get some info on Houghton oils also for a comparison. Really can't find anyone who sells it? Everyone seems to use the Parks 50 but the info I've seen with the steel I use seems the AAA would be a better choice and the cost is better! Or do I continue with Canola??
Click to expand...

I, personally, would not have anything less than 5 gallons in a quench tank. You can have too little, but you can't have too much quenchant. Having too little not only threatens the success of the heat treatment it also wears out the oil faster. Anything with any Cr in it does not require a fast oil like the 10XX, and using too fast a quench will result in increased rates of distortion or even cracking. Alloy steel, like those with Cr like O-1 and 5160, will be best hardened with an 11-14 second oil (Parks/Heatbath AAA, or Houghton Type G). 10XX series, and that includes ANY steel in the 10XX series, is shallow hardening and, not only can handle but, actually requires a fast oils that are 7-10 second (Parks/Heatbath #50, or Houghton type K).
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
I, personally, would not have anything less than 5 gallons in a quench tank. You can have too little, but you can't have too much quenchant. Having too little not only threatens the success of the heat treatment it also wears out the oil faster. Anything with any Cr in it does not require a fast oil like the 10XX, and using too fast a quench will result in increased rates of distortion or even cracking. Alloy steel, like those with Cr like O-1 and 5160, will be best hardened with an 11-14 second oil (Parks/Heatbath AAA, or Houghton Type G). 10XX series, and that includes ANY steel in the 10XX series, is shallow hardening and, not only can handle but, actually requires a fast oils that are 7-10 second (Parks/Heatbath #50, or Houghton type K).
Click to expand...
Ditto.
 
I work 10 series steels and quench in canola oil mostly. Through pure serendipity, five gallons of canola oil. My question is this: I have no way to test Rockwell hardness to verify the steel is getting harder than with canola oil so why is it worth it to change to an expensive quench oil when my current set up passes all of my tests and then some.
 
For me, the decision to get Parks 50 was the life span of the oil. From my understanding, canola oil will break down much quicker and need to be changed often. Also, just knowing that I would be quenching in the optimal oil for the steels I am using. That's not to say that a poor quench in Parks 50 will be better than a perfect quench in canola oil.

I use a metal 5 gallon bucket to quench in. I'll have to make something taller if I go to making longer knives.
 
Kevin forgot more than I’ll ever know about heat treating so what he says. From experience you get one or maybe two quenches on a gallon container during a session. After that the oil has to cool down and it seems to takes for ever to cool down.

It is a pain to have two types of (expensive) oil but if you use different (quench speed) steels, it’s the price you pay to have properly quenched steels.

I keep seeing guys quench in a 5 gallon plastic bucket. It really is begging for a disastrous fire. Please use metal.

If you can weld, find some large diameter like 6 to 10” tubing and a heavy square base plate. Round or square doesn’t matter. It isn’t that hard. The base plate should be heavy and large enough to resist tipping over when bumped. Weld the crap out of your seam. Go hot and deep. Test it with water for leaks. Reweld any pin holes after you drain the water and heat with a torch thoroughly to drive off any remaining moisture or the steam from welding will prevent you from plugging the hole. If you can’t weld, a local welder can do it for pretty cheap since it is an easy, quick welding job.
 
I believe I've mentioned this before but what I use is an 81 mm mortar ammo can that I bought for twenty dollars from Sportsmans guide. It holds five gallons readily and seals tight. The only drawback (and also an advantage) is that it is tall, and could potentially tip over if not attached to something or a base welded on. The advantage to it being tall is that you could quench a good size Bowie in it.

I'm currently using canola oil. Although as I tighten my specs I imagine I will move to commercial quenchant. When a knowledgeable client asks what the quench oil is, using the proper commercial quenchant might mean the difference between a sale or not.
 
Sean Jones said:
I believe I've mentioned this before but what I use is an 81 mm mortar ammo can that I bought for twenty dollars from Sportsmans guide. It holds five gallons readily and seals tight. The only drawback (and also an advantage) is that it is tall, and could potentially tip over if not attached to something or a base welded on. The advantage to it being tall is that you could quench a good size Bowie in it.

I'm currently using canola oil. Although as I tighten my specs I imagine I will move to commercial quenchant. When a knowledgeable client asks what the quench oil is, using the proper commercial quenchant might mean the difference between a sale or not.
Click to expand...

I thought you put the link on here?? I went to their site I'm assuming the one you got is the rectangular one that's made from metal not the round plastic one??
 
Gliden07 said:
I thought you put the link on here?? I went to their site I'm assuming the one you got is the rectangular one that's made from metal not the round plastic one??
Click to expand...
Correct. I don't remember what post it was in now. Here's the link again Sportmans Guide

There's also one for $15.00 but I think it might be too slim for practical purposes.
 
Sean Jones said:
Correct. I don't remember what post it was in now. Here's the link again Sportmans Guide

There's also one for $15.00 but I think it might be too slim for practical purposes.
Click to expand...

May be going this route. A friend of mine tells me he has access to an out of date O2 tank for Oxy Acetylene setup and I can get it for free?? If that works out all oll have to do is cut it to the length I want. Thanks for the link.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top