Pyrometer Question

P

pairomedicsfish

Well-Known Member
Sorry for all of the questions guys, but I am ramping up for a good run at this! I found a thermometer, at a local store. It is designed to test catalytic converters. The high temp is listed at 1999F. Why would this not work for a propane forge, except the temp range, that I probably not exceed? BTW, the whole unit is 20 bucks used......
 
If it is not designed to operate in the atmosphere of a forge it will burn out rather rapidly. I have bought and discarded a cheap one already. The probe really needs to be designed for the forge atmosphere or shielded from that environment; preferable both for longevity. This is what I am expecting to arrive today. I'll let you know how it works........if it does.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...tem=200810725909&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
 
The pyrometer I linked to above is great. It is very simple to operate. I found out that my forge idles right about 1900+- degrees, which doesn't help much for heat treatment of the steels I currently use, but may be of some value somewhere down the line. I had great hopes that I could idle down to around 1500 and hold, give or take a few degrees.
 
Why not go with a PID controller to indicate temperature? Less expensive than that ebay pyrometer, and "IF" you decide to put PID control on a toaster oven you've got the PID.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106

with this TC and ceramic sheath:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106

You're in business for about $75 or so. Add in the $4 TC and add the $15 SSR and you've got everything to control the toaster oven.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=9

Ken
 
Ken, do any of those units that you've listed include the thermocouple. That's even a problem with ordering pyrometers. Even if they come with thermcouples they aren't rated for the temperatures that we use. The one that Jon listed has a ceramic shielded thermocouple that should go up to around 2000°.

Doug
 
Doug, I gave 3 links above - one link is for the PID controller, the 2nd link is for the TC AND ceramic sheath which is rated for 2300ºF "working" temperature. Oooops, I see the 2nd link is the same as the first for the PID controller. Here's the link to the TC and Ceramic sheath:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=39

For a complete temperature indicator, order the PID and sheath. Add the SSR for $15 and $4 for the lower temperature TC have ability to do PID control on a toaster oven.
 
Ken, the link I provided is to Auberins E-Bay outlet. I did not have any luck ordering form their site for some reason. I had a PID controller with thermocouple that I put together from information provided on Ed Caffrey's website but it turned out to be more complicated than what I wanted to do which was simply read the temperature of my forge, not control it. Another issue I had was the PID blanking out at 1300 degrees for some reason with no evident remedy. Anyway, the Auberins set up works very well for the simple minded such as myself. Thanks for providing another temperature monitoring/control option for those who need a bit more flexibility.
 
Jon - it didn't even click that was the Auber ebay site. Looks like their prices are about the same on ebay as when ordering direct, shipping might be a couple bucks more - don't remember for sure. Sometimes I forget everyone hasn't worked with I&E most of their life.

I do think Auber is good stuff, and the time I've talked to them, their tech department was very helpful.

Ken H>
 
Jon, I think that's what it comes down to choosing between a PID and a pyrometer. The PID can do more but it takes more playing with to get it to work. A pyrometer is just plug and play. If I ever get around to building a low temperature molten salt tank I will have to get a PID and figure how to wire it up but for right now the pyrometers that I have do all that I want.

Doug
 
Actually Doug, if a PID is used only as a pyrometer (temperature indicator), there's not setup to do. I just connected the TC wires to terminals on back, connected 120 vac power cord, plug in and read temperature. Well, there is figuring which terminals the TC goes to and which the 120vac power goes to. Not too difficult.

Ken H>
 
Hi Ken, can you post a pic of how you installed your TC? where in the forge should it be located? anything to watch out for?
Thanks, I'm new to all this.
Scott
 
I'd be happy to post a photo, but don't have the forge out now. I just drilled a hole in the side and ran the ceramic sheath thru the side so the end would be inside the forge just a bit, but not in a direct flame. This is for forging, for heat treating I took a 1-1/2" pipe and drilled a hole thru the pipe so the ceramic sheath would extend inside the pipe. This is called a "muffler pipe" to allow better temperature control while heat treating. With the blade inside the pipe it's protected from the direct flame to allow more even heat.

Nothing fancy at all. I think it took a 3/4" (7/8"?) drill - all depending on side of ceramic sheath. Without a ceramic sheath, the TC wire (even #12) won't last very long in that hot flame.

Ken H>
 
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