Post here for design critique.

Windom Armory said:
Top is what I hope to be the final redesign. Bottom is the original design I was sent. I feel that I have completely missed the aesthetic that my customer was going for. Talked to the guy again today for clarification on what he wanted. Turns out he was going for a fighting/hunting blade
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The only thing that would make it visually more pleasing is the angle of the handle front edge more closely following the plunge line. A radiused handle front will work with most plunge line angles but it is a simple matter to keep the handle front parallel to the plunge during construction
 
A little help with a holster design? I know, it's not a knife, if it needs be moved, no problem.
I have a little Ruger LCP II and have not been able to find a holster that actually fits this little guy. I've bought several that the packaging claimed would fit it, but in actuality, not so much.
This is what I came up with as a prototype. It's crude and rude, too rough to use and ugly as sin as it is.
IMG_20170815_082305.jpg
My problem is that I have no experience with a pistol holster and don't know what to do to make it the way it needs to be. Should it come up higher on the sides, should there be more space between the trigger guard and the grip? Any ideas?
Thanks
 
DanF said:
A little help with a holster design? I know, it's not a knife, if it needs be moved, no problem.
I have a little Ruger LCP II and have not been able to find a holster that actually fits this little guy. I've bought several that the packaging claimed would fit it, but in actuality, not so much.
This is what I came up with as a prototype. It's crude and rude, too rough to use and ugly as sin as it is.
View attachment 68738
My problem is that I have no experience with a pistol holster and don't know what to do to make it the way it needs to be. Should it come up higher on the sides, should there be more space between the trigger guard and the grip? Any ideas?
Thanks
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I've gone through multiple holsters for both my G19 and my M&P Shield. So far the best holster I've found is the CompTac Minotaur MTAC. They're expensive though. And unfortunately they don't make one for your gun either.

My leather working experience with gun holsters is zero, but I think I know holsters in general well enough to offer some pointers to consider.

On your holster there are two things I would want changed. One would be to bring the leather down far enough to cover your front sight. One of the biggest complaints I've heard is the front sight getting snagged. All of my holsters, even the ones I don't like, cover the front sight.

Then on the other end, I would want to cut away around the trigger guard and up to almost cover the back sight. I believe this will give you better access to the pistol grip. You can even uncover the back side of the trigger housing as long as the trigger itself isn't exposed, with one caveat. Does the LCP have an external safety? I can't tell from your photo. If it does I would want to keep the safety covered.

Hope that helps. A lot of people go through multiple holsters before they find one that works for them. I thought of making my own but the Minotaur works well for me.
 
Thanks Seanj, that helps.
My apologies to the community, I just read Daniel's first post where he stated, "knife designs". My bad guys, any future questions on this will be posted in sheaths.
 
DanF said:
Thanks Seanj, that helps.
My apologies to the community, I just read Daniel's first post where he stated, "knife designs". My bad guys, any future questions on this will be posted in sheaths.
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I think it fit in just fine. No problems here. I’ve been thinking about making a holster myself
 
Same here soundmind. Nice design, but I don't think I'm qualified to answer your question about transitioning grinds. Heck I'm still doing good to keep things flat.
 
Here's one I'm calling a "field skinner," aimed squarely at field dressing. That's the #1 used game knife in my neck of the woods. I've attempted to put a knife together with good "reach" for internal work and well suited for precisely separating things than need separating. I'd love to here your thoughts on what you see.
 

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soundmind said:
Any opinions or knowledge out there about transitioning grinds from hollow to convex at the tip? I'm thinking better strength for piercing. It does seem more field knives would have them if they really do add strength to the tip.

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Any other comments on this design are welcome.
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I run the 12" wheel slightly diagonal - but that recurve might be a problem - from the ricasso, the tip then ends under the centre line of the wheel, then you start drawing the handle away from flat with the wheel... The upwards slant of the edge after the belly then sorts it out that the tip is done almost coincident with the direction of the belt... so this makes gentle transition... takes a bit of practice, all my pokey stabby things get made like this... and a gradual sweep to the edge is probably more fitting to the approachIMGP1396.jpgIMGP1396.jpg
 
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tkroenlein said:
Here's one I'm calling a "field skinner," aimed squarely at field dressing. That's the #1 used game knife in my neck of the woods. I've attempted to put a knife together with good "reach" for internal work and well suited for precisely separating things than need separating. I'd love to here your thoughts on what you see.
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Looks good to me!
 
tkroenlein said:
Here's one I'm calling a "field skinner," aimed squarely at field dressing. That's the #1 used game knife in my neck of the woods. I've attempted to put a knife together with good "reach" for internal work and well suited for precisely separating things than need separating. I'd love to here your thoughts on what you see.
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What are the dimensions and what did you use to darken the blade? I like the overall shape and the fit and finish on the handle is well executed. The shape of the blade is well suited for an all around hunter in my opinion.
 
opaul said:
What are the dimensions and what did you use to darken the blade? I like the overall shape and the fit and finish on the handle is well executed. The shape of the blade is well suited for an all around hunter in my opinion.
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OAL 9." 4 1/2" scales. Cutting edge is exactly 4." That leaves about a 1/2" between the front edge of the scales and the start of the edge. That is intentional, but I'm still trying to decide if it's a feature or a flaw. ;)

That is just a reflection of the tree above the knife that makes it look dark. It's a bright medium satin finish. Here's a better pic with my sausages wrapped around it for better reference. B971FB22-EFCE-4EB9-A75D-EB9F33115318.jpeg
 
tkroenlein said:
OAL 9." 4 1/2" scales. Cutting edge is exactly 4." That leaves about a 1/2" between the front edge of the scales and the start of the edge. That is intentional, but I'm still trying to decide if it's a feature or a flaw. ;)

That is just a reflection of the tree above the knife that makes it look dark. It's a bright medium satin finish. Here's a better pic with my sausages wrapped around it for better reference. View attachment 69259
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IT really looks nice. The only thing I would suggest is a makers mark! Beautiful work.
 
I'm posting up my latest knife. As you can see in the first picture is the fit up between the ricasso, bolster, micarta spacers and antler. The second picture shows the grind along the bottom of the handle in relationship to the ricasso. What if anything would you have done differently?

 
I would have given it more of a drop point , to closer match that gentle curve of the antler. Other than that ,I wouldn't change anything.
 
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