Possible Logo

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
529E04C2-A02D-4C8A-A78A-7C23D65F272C.jpegI designed this logo. It won’t be a makers mark. This would be more for my website. Aside for the letter B, any other suggestions on what I could put in the circle. I thought an anvil, but I do stock removal so that doesn’t make sense. I think a skull would be overkill. Any ideas?
 
People remember names....not logos. ;)

When if comes time for a "makers mark" for blades.....think long and hard about it. That makers mark is your billboard, and the only advertising the most folks will ever see about you....so make sure its such, that they can find you easily, and for heaven sake, unless you want to remain invisible, don't use some obscure logo or initials......that only you know the meaning of.
 
People remember names....not logos. ;)

When if comes time for a "makers mark" for blades.....think long and hard about it. That makers mark is your billboard, and the only advertising the most folks will ever see about you....so make sure its such, that they can find you easily, and for heaven sake, unless you want to remain invisible, don't use some obscure logo or initials......that only you know the meaning of.
Yes right now I am using a simple B with 3 dots around it that I separately cold hand stamp. is it possible to cold hand stamp my last name Is I get a stamp made?
 
On my stock removal blades, I cold stamp my name after I clean the mill scale off of the profiled blank but before any HT. That way the letters show up black.

I like your logo by the way. If it were mine I would put a Walrus in the middle...Walrus are cool.
 
Bought mine from Everstamp....Henry Evers.
I just called . Nice guys Tony and Joe. I called him Henry. Henry died about 100 years ago Lol. This company has been around a long time and is only 20 minutes from me in RI. Also do you suggest any sought of jig to hold it in place or can I get by with The stamp. I’m going with M. Barone. I should go with my full initials from Mark Steven Barone. Which would be M.S. Barone. Then people will think I am a master smith . But I wouldn’t do that.
 
I agree with John on stamp size. 1/16" tall letters is a lot bigger then it sounds, and most importantly..... you have to ensure that the entire stamp will fit where you want it too, on all the different sizes of blades you make. I didn't have anybody to guide me in the beginning, so I purchased a 3/32" tall letters stamp...... even with only 7 letters in my last name, that stamp would only fit on the ricasso of larger blades..... which lead me to buy a 1/16" tall lettered stamp not long afterward. ;) If you're going to cold stamp, make sure you buy a quality stamp (Everstamp). I would also encourage buiding/using a small hydraulic jack press to apply the stamp......
There's a pic of one I built in this article...... http://www.caffreyknives.net/marking_art.html
 
I agree with Ed. Personally I find the stamp holder a waste of money but I would recommend either pressing it in using a bottle jack like Ed describes or an arbor press, which is what I use.

You want to be able to accurately and safely apply a good even mark. Hand holding and smacking a cold stamp is right out.
 
an arbor press, which is what I use.
THAT is likely the best, easiest, and least expensive way! I'd forgotten all about that method. Pull down on the arbor press, and a good whack with a hammer on the top of the "ram"......BINGO!

I tend to hot stamp everything, but that's because my process lends itself to doing so. I actually haven't used the jack/press in a long time....because the last time I did..... I took one pump too many on the jack handle. and split the ricasso on a rather high end mosaic bowie blade. GRRRR! :)
 

I use this one. I have stamped every knife I have made for a year and it shows no sign of wear yet. I like the ability to order different size letters and numbers and change the stamp as I wish without having to order a new stamp. The best part is if the letters do wear eventually then all I have to do is order more letters at a much lesser cost than having a new stamp made. The same holder will hold multiple sizes of stamps too so I do not have to order but one holder.
 

I use this one. I have stamped every knife I have made for a year and it shows no sign of wear yet. I like the ability to order different size letters and numbers and change the stamp as I wish without having to order a new stamp. The best part is if the letters do wear eventually then all I have to do is order more letters at a much lesser cost than having a new stamp made. The same holder will hold multiple sizes of stamps too so I do not have to order but one holder.

That would work fine.......IF all your letter and number characters are perfectly centered on each of their respective posts. I used that method for my first 10 blades or so but each individual letter was not centered the same on each post. It looked terrible.
 
That would work fine.......IF all your letter and number characters are perfectly centered on each of their respective posts. I used that method for my first 10 blades or so but each individual letter was not centered the same on each post. It looked terrible.
That was my worry when I ordered it but I have not noticed anything like that in my stamp.
 
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