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Friction folder

how about a friction folder tutorial? I would like to try making one, and could use some help.
Dale
 
i'd be interested in some tong making tutorials :) we all know we want them ahaha box jaw and the like :)
 
I'd like to see a thread dedicated to someone setting the bolsters on a blade. Whether this be on a fixed blade or pocket knife, I've never done them and I'd like to know how.

From what I understand you basicly have two bolsters, and a pin in between them. I see some bolster pins faintly in pictures. I guess this would be a situation where the pin goes through the bolsters and the bolsters are taper reamed. then, the bolster pin is swedged in place and ground flat to match the surface of the bolster. That's my guess. and if there are some pins that do not pass all the way through the bolster, I have no Idea how this works lol.
 
J S Machine said:
I'd like to see a thread dedicated to someone setting the bolsters on a blade. Whether this be on a fixed blade or pocket knife, I've never done them and I'd like to know how.

From what I understand you basicly have two bolsters, and a pin in between them. I see some bolster pins faintly in pictures. I guess this would be a situation where the pin goes through the bolsters and the bolsters are taper reamed. then, the bolster pin is swedged in place and ground flat to match the surface of the bolster. That's my guess. and if there are some pins that do not pass all the way through the bolster, I have no Idea how this works lol.
Click to expand...


Are you talking about something like this??

IMG_3388.jpg
 
J S Machine said:
Yes, but the design where there are two halves. Not the design where the tang goes through the bolster.
Click to expand...

This is the one you are talking about. Here a few pics...I am at work so I can't put anything together. If find some time tonight I can put some pics together of how I attach my bolsters.

readyassymble.jpg


readytopeen.jpg


peened.jpg



Sorry for the blurry pics!!
 
J S Machine said:
Yes, but the design where there are two halves.

Written by N.D.
Do You mean a knife W a full tang that uses Handle Scales made from 2 flat slabs of something, and the Bolsters are the same way?

Not the design where the tang goes through the bolster.
Click to expand...

Not the design where the tang goes through the bolster.
If memory serves me for a change, I think the last description, is called a Stick Tang, Hidden Tang or even a Rabitt Tang. . . :D :bud:


 
maxcutter03 said:
This is the one you are talking about. Here a few pics...I am at work so I can't put anything together. If find some time tonight I can put some pics together of how I attach my bolsters.

readyassymble.jpg


readytopeen.jpg


peened.jpg



Sorry for the blurry pics!!
Click to expand...


This is it. I can see where you have pinned the bolsters. I assume the holes in the bolsters are tapered and the pins swedged in place. After this, Do you grind everything down flat where the pins assume the same height as the surface of the bolster?

Reason I ask is because I have trouble seeing the pins in some examples of this. The only thing I can imagine that hides it so well is just a good job of final sanding and polishing and using the exact same material for the pins as the bolster itself... Is this the case?

This is an example of one that I have trouble seeing the pins - if they are attached the way I described. If not, how in the world are they attached?

http://www.knifedogs.com/showthread.php?t=770
 
I use 416 SS flat stock for the bolsters and 3/32" 416 SS rod for pins. I don't taper the holes. I drill the holes with a #41 drill which is just larger than the rod stock. I leave about 1/8" of pin sticking out of both sides of the bolster holes. Then carefully start peening. I will be getting a pin press so I don't have to hammer the pins anymore.

Then I just start grinding the bolster to shape. Your pins should be invisible when you get to finish product. If peened correctly the pins expand all the way down to the tang. I know this because I had to grind one off do to a small case of bumb a$$.

I start a thread with pic and explanations when I get a chance.
 
maxcutter03 said:
I use 416 SS flat stock for the bolsters and 3/32" 416 SS rod for pins. I don't taper the holes. I drill the holes with a #41 drill which is just larger than the rod stock. I leave about 1/8" of pin sticking out of both sides of the bolster holes. Then carefully start peening. I will be getting a pin press so I don't have to hammer the pins anymore.

Then I just start grinding the bolster to shape. Your pins should be invisible when you get to finish product. If peened correctly the pins expand all the way down to the tang. I know this because I had to grind one off do to a small case of bumb a$$.

I start a thread with pic and explanations when I get a chance.
Click to expand...

Ok. That sounds like what I thought. I couldn't think of a way that they could possibly attach from the backside.

Here is what you might be interested in. This is an arbor press, and they work great for this type of stuff. I don't know if this is the smallest one Harbor Freight makes, but they did have a really small one in there when I was in there the other day. It would be great for knives.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html
 
I have a hydrolic press.......I am just waiting on my anvals to come back from the machine shop. I got pics of that too.
 
Making gemstone handles and a tutorial on lost wax casting for guards and other fittings.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
how about making your own pins??

is there a tut on making your own pins?
i have brass,aluminum,and other metal types.
tubes,rods,squares,etc.
would like to know what a pin can be made with,etc?
jd
 
I've got a relatively simple request: how about a tutorial about making irregularly shaped micarta handles symmetrical, mine always turn out a bit lopsided and I would like to see how people who do it regularly get it done.
 
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