pinched!!

S

stezann

Well-Known Member
:les: That's it! NO WALK & TALK FOR ME THIS TIME!!!!
My fault...i hammered too much the pivot pin and i pinched the blade of my new slippie.
I'm starting to understand why makers love so much that little bronze bushings. I'm trying with no avail to slacken the lil' sucker with the method of T.Bose's and with gallons of oil and exercise...let's see if i'll come to wear something lose...as soon as i regrow my thumbs nail ;)

If i could offer some tips from my bad experience: when peening the pins use a visegrip to make sure the liners are well pressed around the blade, 'cause in my case i can see a little gap, against the light, with a bit of pin swell between the tang and one of the liners. I believe this is the main reason for my pinched blade, and most probably the reason why i can't make Tony's trick work.

Is this thing ever happened to You? How did you managed to solve? Thanks guys!!
 
Well I am not going to recommend this but back when I was young and dumb and first in the Army I bought a Buck knife from the PX and it was tough to open.
I took some good clean fine sand and some honeing oil dripped the oil in and all around the pivot area both sides and a bit of the fine sand. I then kept working it back and forth and the oiling and putting a little more sand in the mix. Wipe the oil and sand away from the blade except at the pivot area.
After a couple of nights of sitting on the couch doing this all night while watching TV, my slightly annoyed wife asked me. "Do you have to do that"?

I responded with, "I am trying to work it enough so I can catch the blade while opening and pop it with my wrist and have it open".

She responds with, "well it looks dangerous"! :31:

I responded with, "for one I am not pointing it toward anyone and two I have never had it slip out of my hand". No more than got the words out of my mouth and the knife slipped out of my hand the next time I popped it open. It went flying across the living room and stuck in the base board under the TV.:what!: Without saying anything I got up removed it from the base board, went to the kitchen and washed the entire knife with dish soap and hot water and went and put it up for the night.:nothing:

When I got back to the living room she looks at me and draws a breath to say something, I threw up my hand and said, "OK don't rub it in"!:eek::biggrin:

I am not saying it is a great practice but the honening oil and the fine sand will work in around the blade and it acts as a polishing agent!
 
Wow, that story reminds my knifemaking scars...every one of them had followed the shy tought:
- uhmm...what if it slips now? (sanding)
- what if it grabs now? (if buffing)
- could it be hot yet? it's not red....(normalizing)
and so on.... ;)

The knife i made is a 4 1/2 backpocket slipjoint with ss bolsters and stag scales, i really won't risk to gall the spring with sand. I'll call it experience and i'll finish it and keep the knife for myself because it is the best i did (murphy's law) aside the crippled walk and the silent talk. It is zero dialed in 3 positions, blade centered and (sigh!) HAD a very nice action.
At least when in use it will be less likely to close upon my hand... I was very stupid, i didn't check for the action until the end of the peening!!!
 
Yeah, like I said I wasn't really recommending the treatment just saying it will work. Tightening too tight, is kind of like cutting a board too short. You can always cut it again but once it is too short its too short, or in your case too tight.

You might take this question over to the folder forum and get a better answer.

http://knifedogs.com/forumdisplay.php?101-Folding-Knives-Forum

There are some members of this forum that make some fantastic folders! Sorry I couldn't really help, the story just popped in my mind when you said it was too tight!
 
Take it apart and peen it back again. Assuming you used a 3/32 pivot pin, drill a 1/16 hole in the pin, then drive it out with a 3/32 punch. The hole will allow the peened head to collapse inward a bit, and you can get the pin out and start over.

I sometimes use JB Bore Paste (basically similar to Flitz) to polish the action like Mike and other suggested, if you don't want to go crazy taking it apart.
 
When you mention Tony Bose's trick for loosening a folder pivot, are you referring to putting the blade 90º and tapping with hammer on an anvil? That sure works like a champ. If that doesn't loosen it up, then I think Jason might have the best idea, just drill 'n punch old pin out and start over. Sure is frustrating when that happens isn't it? I know, I speak from experience, and have even had it happy with a bushing.

Did you use the .002" shim when peening the pivot pin?

Ken H>
 
jkf96a said:
Take it apart and peen it back again. Assuming you used a 3/32 pivot pin, drill a 1/16 hole in the pin, then drive it out with a 3/32 punch. The hole will allow the peened head to collapse inward a bit, and you can get the pin out and start over.

I sometimes use JB Bore Paste (basically similar to Flitz) to polish the action like Mike and other suggested, if you don't want to go crazy taking it apart.
Click to expand...

I agree with Jason. Drill it out and start over,I've done more than once,especially if the pin won;t hide.

Stan
 
Google 'crinking tool'.
The old timers had a tool, basicly a forked skinny prybar, which they worked between the tang and liner on overly tight folders. There's got to be a pic of one somewhere, I know I saw it in one of my many books.


Rudy
 
thank you guys, i appreciate not to be left alone with my pinched blade ;) C Craft: i appreciated also your story, it's fun and i could see myself (and my lady) in it :)
Ken: yes the method was the one you said, unfortunatly my ss pin is 3mm diam. and very stubborn, i even managed to almost pry the soldered bolster apart a bit at one corner, trying to torque. Fun thing i was wandering if 1,5 mm deep, 10 degree taper reaming in the bolsters would be enough to keep the pin in place...IT WAS!!!!!

Drilling with an undersize drill bit the pivot scares me (what if i drill out of square!!) i but eventually i understand it is the way to go.

I didn't use shims, because in the past i've lived without and got very nice action without blade play...but i took more time with gentler hammering, this time i hammered straight in the center...stupid me!!

One big question: how do you leave the inside holes rims before peening? i mean the rims of the blade hole, and the inside rims of the liners holes (at the pivot), do you countersink a bit or leave them sharp? This time i left them sharp (although deburred) because i tought i didn't want any pin bulge near the blade...sigh
 
That happened to me once. In fact, it happened to me three times on the same knife AAAAAWWWWW!!! I drilled out the pivot three times and messed up the liners trying to open them up a little using a flat screwdriver. I've decided that bushings are definitely the way to go to get a tight fit without pinching the blade. That knife sits in my drawer of shame as a reminder of how NOT to do things.
 
Brandant, i will finsh the knife and will keep in my pocket of shame...every time i will open it i will remember to be very very careful with the hammer ;) ;)
Tragic stories and all, i still think that slipjoint making is fascinating....i won't give up!!!!
 
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