O K, I am a dumb a@#

J

Jerry Bond

Well-Known Member
For the life of me, I cannot find what I itch a hamon with.
This will be my first hamon the steel is 1084.
Have been making knives for 5-6 yrs on a reg. basis, but
never got around to the hamon thing.
If someone would give me a kick start , I would app. it
Thanks a bunch--Jerry
 
The WIP that Josh recommends is a great starting point. I would also recommend getting all the real stuff as far as using the right quenching oil and ordering some satinite.
 
Jerry,
If you dont have ferric you can use hot vinager, put a few drops of dawn soap in it,
heat it to almost boiling. It will take longer but it will give good results.

Greg
 
Hay guys,
Thanks for all the info.
I have a pt. of PCB etchant solution from Radio shack, will that do the trick? I also have a gal. of distilled vinegar, which would be the best to itch with? Thanks, Jerry
 
I have used both the ferric chloride is faster in my opinion just a quick dip in and out. then clean the blade with windex it will then need to be polished i use flitz and remove the oxides left from the etchant. Repeat until you have your desired effect.

Bob
 
Well, I did it like steven F said to, and NO hamon.
Maybe it's because it's 1084 or maybe it the canola oil.But I do have a good diff HT on the blade. Maybe next time.
!! second oil on the way.
Thanks for everything guys--Jerry
 
Jerry
If you got the 1084 from Aldo that may be the problem.He has some magnesum added to help hardening but will almost never get a hamon.
Stan
 
SBuzek said:
Jerry
If you got the 1084 from Aldo that may be the problem.He has some magnesum added to help hardening but will almost never get a hamon.
Stan
Click to expand...

Stan,
its manganese that the percentage is increased in Aldo's 1084 and it does increase the hardening and interferes with hamon creation.

Jerry,
If you want a dark blade then use ferric, if you want a light blade then use warm vinegar.
 
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I struck all that down in my notes, thanks
Now I've got to stop playing with this and get to work
next time I'll use 1080 and the 11second oil will be in.
Thanks, Jerry
 
a hamon sometimes is difficult to get to show . The other poster was correct don't use any steel that has manganese levels over .25 , if you want lots of activity instead of just a line . The word "hamon," is often misused ,it is a japanese descriptive word . The actual word has nothing to do with , knives , temper or any of the other words attributed to "hamon" It simply Means "Ripple ring on the water . Dont use a quench longer than 4-6 secs . try some parks 50 . Walter sorrels has a great video on hamons . I would buy it . Couple pics of 1095 with manganese around .23 quenched with parks 50 regards....... Bubba
 
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Actually Aldo's 1084 takes a pretty nice hamon in Parks 50 oil. You can get a nice curvy line but not the real active line of a water quench. I broke 8 blades before accepting that I was not going to water quench the 1084. 1080 will water quench nicely but w1 or w2 is better.

Here is an oil quench from Aldo's 1084
 

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There is the rub. Finding W1 or W2 flat stock is all but impossible. All I have found available is round stock that has to be forged down. If you have the ability to forge or a local friend who does I would sell you a foot of W2 5/8" round stock.
Jerry Bond said:
Just where do you think, I might buy a pc of W2 1/8" flat stock?
Jerry
Click to expand...
 
Jerry,

I'm using veterinarian grade mineral oil from Tractor Supply heated to about 135F and a limiter plate to produce a beautiful quench line on 1084. If you want the wavy hamon, you have to go the clay route but I'm fine with just a nice differential quench line.

I use ferric chloride 3 to 1 with distilled water of about a minute for an etch.

Carey
 
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