nordic knife, made without electricity

kevin - the professor

Well-Known Member
Hello Everyone,
It has been about 6 months since I have made any knives. Marriage, moving, new shop, etc. In fact, this knife was made without electricity (except for the drill press on the fittings). The new shop has crappy wiring, and I can't use my big tools without a generator. I didn't have the generator when I did the work on this one.

Hope you like. It is 1075, with a 6" blade. Kinda big for this style, but it was what I had to start with, and I just forged what I had.

The new shop is coming together. Hopefully, a lot more to come, soon!



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One of the ways that I define Neo-Tribal Metalsmithing is that if a TEOTWAKI event occurs, we could adjust how we work a little and still be able to produce knives. I think you've shown that quite nicely.

Remember, when the Russians nuke us back to the Dark Ages and the rest of the country toils under the iron rule of the Amish overlords, we blacksmiths shall be free! :D
 
I like the tension of the back line and the blade shape ,....I also made a few with no power tools and it is not easy at all, especially the job on the handle.
it leads one to the assumption: take away the power tools and look whats left over ....it is the substance of our mind and our hands what remains...and You did a fine job!
 
thanks Jeremiah. I usually split handle material and then flatten the two halves with a face mill cutter, and then mill and chisel out a slot for the tang, then glue them back together.

On this one, I split with a Japanese backsaw, and flattened on a surface block with 100 grit paper. That worked faster than I thought it would (with a little help in the beginning from a cabinet maker's rasp and a big freakin' file).

I NEVER use power tools to shape a handle (at least not the wood part. I use drills, grinders, and my mill to shape guard, then a whole array of files). But the wood... that is always rasps and files. I just can't feel the work happening in the way I need to with power tools when working on handle woods.

I often use a disc sander (I put paper over the psa adhesive on the cloth discs and then use feathering adhesive on the paper so I can easily interchange the discs) when working. I use the disc for flattening, and for removal of the rasp marks. It is a great way to get a jump start on sanding, too. 50 grit and 250 grit with the disc, and then 220 by hand is really easy.

Honestly, I will be back to these expedients for most things. But I did make some good chisels in order to complete this knife handle, and I am glad I have them. I have become much better with chisels (and therefore carving) as a result of this work.

Don Fogg always emphasizes that in shaping the knife, we are also shaping ourselves. This one did more of that than most do for me.

I can see why Don gave his grinder away when he reached a point that people would pay him enough for a knife that he could afford to work slow. I see why Tai does things the way he does too.

It is a lot more enjoyable to not have noise and sparks everywhere.

kc
 
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