Needing advice from the wise ones again
- Thread starter wall e
- Start date
Doug Lester
Well-Known Member
It looks like your pin holes follow a shallow arc instead of a straight line which I think really works for that handle. It's good looking blade. I'll be interested on what the finished product looks like.
Doug
Doug
J. Doyle
Dealer - Purveyor
No, not really.....'proper edge geometry' meaning there is a proper shape and enough material immediately behind the cutting edge to support the edge so it doesn't roll or chip during normal use.
Personally, I think a flat ground blade with a convex edge is the best for most knives. How much material you leave for support immediately behind the cutting edge depends on the knife type and its intended use. More 'meat' directly behind the cutting edge will make for a more robust edge that will take more abuse but there is a point of diminishing returns. Meaning that as you make an edge more robust and durable, you will eventually sacrifice slicing efficiency. You want to find a good balance between the two concepts.
A good knife is a balanced blend of good heat treating, good tempering and good edge geometry. The best way to determine proper edge geometry is to test the knife on the intended materials and tasks. Assuming you have a properly hardened blade, performance will come down to tempering and edge geometry. Very generally speaking, If the edge fails to hold up in your testing, there are generally two ways to fix it:
1. Increase the tempering temperature, which will make the edge tougher but will come at the expense of less wear resistance
or
2. Thicken the edge, giving more support directly behind the cutting edge which will make the edge more durable but will come at the expense of sacrificing slicing efficiency.
Ultimately what you want to do is find the best blend of those two ideas, i. e. an edge that is hard enough to provide good wear resistance but with enough support behind it to resist chipping or rolling.
Personally, I think a flat ground blade with a convex edge is the best for most knives. How much material you leave for support immediately behind the cutting edge depends on the knife type and its intended use. More 'meat' directly behind the cutting edge will make for a more robust edge that will take more abuse but there is a point of diminishing returns. Meaning that as you make an edge more robust and durable, you will eventually sacrifice slicing efficiency. You want to find a good balance between the two concepts.
A good knife is a balanced blend of good heat treating, good tempering and good edge geometry. The best way to determine proper edge geometry is to test the knife on the intended materials and tasks. Assuming you have a properly hardened blade, performance will come down to tempering and edge geometry. Very generally speaking, If the edge fails to hold up in your testing, there are generally two ways to fix it:
1. Increase the tempering temperature, which will make the edge tougher but will come at the expense of less wear resistance
or
2. Thicken the edge, giving more support directly behind the cutting edge which will make the edge more durable but will come at the expense of sacrificing slicing efficiency.
Ultimately what you want to do is find the best blend of those two ideas, i. e. an edge that is hard enough to provide good wear resistance but with enough support behind it to resist chipping or rolling.
wall e
Well-Known Member
Ok that helps alot and cleared alot up.
So after ht an temper if I run the gauntlet of grit 220 to 400 then hand finish to 600 the edge should do like the last several have and show up as the blade becomes finished. Then sharpening on the lansky kit at 25° will be about proper geometry?
So after ht an temper if I run the gauntlet of grit 220 to 400 then hand finish to 600 the edge should do like the last several have and show up as the blade becomes finished. Then sharpening on the lansky kit at 25° will be about proper geometry?