Need some help/info

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
about G10. As in : what is the best way to shape it when it's being used as a liner? Remember , I don't have a grinder.
Best way to finish it. Any precautions? Any special info?
Thanks in advance
 

SS369

Well-Known Member
Can be shaped using files and sandpaper (wrapped around various shapes for contours).
Finish it with fine sanding and buffing, even by hand.
Dust is plain yucky and not good for you.
Rough it up and clean it well (Acetone) before epoxying.
I drill through the liner and into the scales a smidgen to allow the epoxy to penetrate all the material.
 

billyO

Well-Known Member
I just did a bolster in black G10 and it works just like other synthetic materials. I used the same tools/stuff that I use on my stabilized bolcks. Portaband and sandpaper (well and grinder for rough shaping). I didn't skip grits like I normally do when doing K&G stabilized maple, and went 220-400-800-1500-5000. I will say it looked awful until I got up to the 1500 grit.
Safety is the standard stuff, breathing protection, etc.
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
Can be shaped using files and sandpaper (wrapped around various shapes for contours).
Finish it with fine sanding and buffing, even by hand.
Dust is plain yucky and not good for you.
Rough it up and clean it well (Acetone) before epoxying.
I drill through the liner and into the scales a smidgen to allow the epoxy to penetrate all the material.
Thanks alot. That really helps. I've never used it before so all info is good. Especially the dust info as I have COPD,
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
I just did a bolster in black G10 and it works just like other synthetic materials. I used the same tools/stuff that I use on my stabilized bolcks. Portaband and sandpaper (well and grinder for rough shaping). I didn't skip grits like I normally do when doing K&G stabilized maple, and went 220-400-800-1500-5000. I will say it looked awful until I got up to the 1500 grit.
thanks. This is my first foray into synthetics
 

Dennis Morland

KNIFE MAKER
I use a 60 grit large sand paper dremel tool to shape my handle swells. Sometimes, they have g10 liners. I follow that with way too much hand sanding. The different size circle shape objects is a great tip.
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
I've heard people that don't like working with it but personally I really like it. I think it works a lot easier than micarta and in different cases it looks good in a rough finish, a highly sanded finish or buffed to a high gloss.
The big thing with G10 is that it's fiber glass, so you HAVE to wear a good respirator and have some kind of vacuum system running where your grind or heavy sanding it.
as for working liners you shouldn't have any surprises, it works kind of like wood. gust be sure to roughen any glossy areas that are going to contact epoxy.
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
I've heard people that don't like working with it but personally I really like it. I think it works a lot easier than micarta and in different cases it looks good in a rough finish, a highly sanded finish or buffed to a high gloss.
The big thing with G10 is that it's fiber glass, so you HAVE to wear a good respirator and have some kind of vacuum system running where your grind or heavy sanding it.
as for working liners you shouldn't have any surprises, it works kind of like wood. gust be sure to roughen any glossy areas that are going to contact epoxy.
thanks, Steve. All good info here, guys. I really appreciate it.
 

tkroenlein

Well-Known Member
Yup. Make it rough and put holes through it if you can. It really doesn't bond all that well if surface prep is lacking. Files, sands, and shapes real well.
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
Y'all are sure helpin this feller out. I'm gonna be able to avoid wasted time and material .
Thank you all for your time and effort. I shore do appreciate y'all!
 
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