Need help on razor sharp sharpening wheels

Usually nothing, but if I do, I just rub the strop with some pink No-Scratch compound.

Personally, I think "stropping compound" is more of a gimmick to sell the stuff then anything......all you're doing with a strop is taking the "burr" off the sharpened edge..... many times I've done it with the back of a used grinding belt. :)
 
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EdCaffreyMS said:
Usually nothing, but if I do, I just rub the strop with some pink No-Scratch compound.

Personally, I think "stropping compound" is more of a gimmick to sell the stuff then anything......all you're doing with a strop is taking the "burr" off the sharpened edge..... many times I've done it with the back of a used grinding belt. :)
Click to expand...

Oh cool... would white compound work instead of pink (already have it) also i used to go up to 800 grit on the sharpening jig on the 1x30 so I'll probably try that too?


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White compound will work fine. Most who use anything on a strop have their "favorite stuff" they put on it.

I would try different beginning and ending grits until you find what you like best. It's rare that I ever go beyond a 600 grit on carbon blades, and most of the time will simply do the worn out 400, then finish the edge and am done.

Something that I think is worth mentioning..... there are basically two types of edges that I can/will put on a blade, each depending on the end use of the blade. If it's for somebody I know is going to use the knife, say for camping, hunting or the like, the blade gets the worn out 400 edge and stays like that. This gives a "toothy" edge that cuts and last much better on animals and general "chores".

I know everybody wants a "razor" edge on their knife/knives, but that's not always the best choice. A razor edge breaks down easily and quickly when using a knife on game, or doing camp chores. I will usually put this type of edge on a knife that's bound for a collection, or someone I know that will use it "casually"..... that edge would be done on a worn out 400 grit belt, then each side lightly buffed to create the "hair popping" edge that everyone likes to impress their friends with. Just to clarify, that's on a carbon steel blade, and.... I also build/grind my blades in such a way that there are VERY tiny or no edge bevels when the blade(s) are sharpened. :)
 
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EdCaffreyMS said:
White compound will work fine. Most who use anything on a strop have their "favorite stuff" they put on it.

I would try different beginning and ending grits until you find what you like best. It's rare that I ever go beyond a 600 grit on carbon blades, and most of the time will simply do the worn out 400, then finish the edge and am done.

Something that I think is worth mentioning..... there are basically two types of edges that I can/will put on a blade, each depending on the end use of the blade. If it's for somebody I know is going to use the knife, say for camping, hunting or the like, the blade gets the worn out 400 edge and stays like that. This gives a "toothy" edge that cuts and last much better on animals and general "chores".

I know everybody wants a "razor" edge on their knife/knives, but that's not always the best choice. A razor edge breaks down easily and quickly when using a knife on game, or doing camp chores. I will usually put this type of edge on a knife that's bound for a collection, or someone I know that will use it "casually"..... that edge would be done on a worn out 400 grit belt, then each side lightly buffed to create the "hair popping" edge that everyone likes to impress their friends with. Just to clarify, that's on a carbon steel blade, and.... I also build/grind my blades in such a way that there are VERY tiny or no edge bevels when the blade(s) are sharpened. :)
Click to expand...

Oh that makes sense... I only have new 400 grit belts so I guess I'll one of ware them down lol. And I have a buffer with a loose wheel and white compound so I guess I'm set! I'll practice on a couple cheap knives I own and I'm supposed sharpen a friends knife and he wants a super sharp knife so I'll make it razor sharp and I'll ware down quickly and I'll say that's cause it's a cheap knife (it's a 30$ buck knife) and he will buy a knife from me lol! Nah just kidding but I will ask him and tell him the options.


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Wish me luck!


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Keeping it "even" is just a matter of repetition and practice.

It's not always desirable from a performance standpoint to have the edge "even" throughout.... although it's more appealing to the eye, and it's what most folks expect. In many cases I will have the convex on the edge intentionally "heavier" (more heavily convexed) from the tip of the blade back for about 1/3 the blade's length. The reason? Because that area is always the most heavily used portion of any blade (for the average size knife) and therefore needs to be emphasized for the longest lasting, most durable edge you can apply.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
Keeping it "even" is just a matter of repetition and practice.

It's not always desirable from a performance standpoint to have the edge "even" throughout.... although it's more appealing to the eye, and it's what most folks expect. In many cases I will have the convex on the edge intentionally "heavier" (more heavily convexed) from the tip of the blade back for about 1/3 the blade's length. The reason? Because that area is always the most heavily used portion of any blade (for the average size knife) and therefore needs to be emphasized for the longest lasting, most durable edge you can apply.
Click to expand...

Ah makes sense. Well thanks again! I guess I'll practice a bit.


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