More handle pin questions

D

Dan Youngs

Active Member
Can you all share your opinions on the pros and cons of different methods of handle pins , rivets, Corby bolts etc...

So far I have only used brass pins and some brass mosaic I made from brass tubing...

Are there advantages of using rivets or Corby's

I would like to hear some discussion of how each choice impacts shop procedures and time building

Thanks for your thoughts. Dan
 
I like pins myself. They are small and if placed along the edges will hold the scales down very well. They do need to be peened correctly but with some practice that will be easy. They need to be installed after all the contouring is finished. Be sure to ream the hole with a 2 degree tapered ream so there is space for the pin to expand. Watch carefully and land the hammer blows on the pin head to control the swelling. Don't bend the pin or it will damage the scale, just go easy and slow until the space is filled with metal. Easy as pie.
Corby bolts work good but be sure to use the correct size step drill. If they are over tightened they could crack the scales or the scales will lift away from the tang later. Be sure to drill a test hole in a piece of scrap material and see if the corby fits the hole. It should go in by hand and not need to be forced into the hole. Different handle materials drill differently. I,ve ground down Corey's a little so they would fit better. Gaps are unsightly so take your time. Also corbys get very hot when grinding the heads down and will burn a blackish ring around them on light colored scales. Go slow and use sharp belts. I cut the excess head off on the bandsaw first, that helps.
 
I like pins too. I do use Corby bolts too though. I won't use stainless Corby bolts for one of the reasons Bruce describes. They will heat up and burn your handle material if your not careful. I prefer the aluminum corbys if I'm using a Corby bolt. They are soft and grind easy. They will polish out to a mirror if you want. If you go to a welding supply shop you can get 1/8" bronze brazing rods and 1/8" aluminum TIG rod. Both work great for pins and are cheap. I use a #30 wire size drill bit for 1/8" pins.
 
Bruce, I have not been peening my pins.... just drilling hole (sometimes too tight as described in my other post) then epoxying everything together... is this wrong? Or is peening so you do not need epoxy?

Thanx... Dan
 
Dan Youngs said:
Bruce, I have not been peening my pins.... just drilling hole (sometimes too tight as described in my other post) then epoxying everything together... is this wrong? Or is peening so you do not need epoxy?

Thanx... Dan
Click to expand...
Yep, you need to drill the holes, contour the handle material, ream the hole with a tapered ream, install the pin without glue and lightly tap the pin to fill the gap. Pocket knives are assembled this way and never pull loose.
 
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