Mirror finish

R

Rick Bradshaw

New Member
I am the new guy and have a million questions . I want to make everyday knifes ,knife that are ment to be used . I like to make something out of scrap, I am starting with old chainsaw bars , shoeing rasps, coil springs. As I learn and get better I may use other steel. My question is the first 2 knifes I made lost there shine after I used them , that's ok for my personal knife but if I make one for a friend I would like it to hold its shine as well as hold an edge.
 
My question is the first 2 knifes I made lost there shine after I used them , that's ok for my personal knife but if I make one for a friend I would like it to hold its shine as well as hold an edge.
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Most steels that are not stainless are going to tarnish/rust/stain....its just the nature of the beast. Likely the only way you're going to "hold the shine" is to use a stainless steel.

That being said, as you learn more about steels and knifemaking, I would encourage you to use either new or known type steel(s). With the items you mentioned you're using for blades, its a crapshoot as to if a knife blade should be made from them. Without getting long winded, suffice to say that its cheaper and easier on you to just buy some new/known steel. That way you know excatly what you're working with, and there is going to be plenty of information out there to help you along.
 
Another thing on mystery metal is that without knowing the chemical make-up of the alloy it is impossible to know exactly how to heat treat it. Yes, you may come out with an acceptable edge with one chain saw bar or coil spring but that does not mean that you won't have to experiment with the next one to get it to harden and temper properly. Rasps are even a bigger risk. Some are made with high carbon steel and some are just case hardened and you will never be able to make a decent blade with them.

As far as a finish for an every day carry knife a mirror finish is not a good choice even if you choose a stainless steel which won't develop a patina. The mirror finish just won't hold up to use. Much better to do a satin finish.

Doug
 
I have a 'mirror-finish' related question. I am working on a tanto that is mirror finished (because that's what the new owner wants). He would also like a Kydex sheath, so that's what I'm planning. My question is: Will Kydex scratch up or mar a mirror finish (on 5061) more than leather would? I have never made a Kydex sheath before.
Thx,
Bill
 
yes it will if you aren't careful. Kydex has to have some notch or bump to hold the knife, like a finger choil for instance.

a trick is to allow the kydex to grip this feature of the knife without making the kydex squeeze too tightly at the mouth of the sheath. in other words, you don't want the tip of the knife to have to push the kydex apart as you put the knife into the sheath, so that it won't scratch.

the other issue is that the kydex edges need to be sanded smooth, and the sanding process gets kydex 'dust / debris' in the sheath. you'll want to get these grits out of there.


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A bit more on the when you mold your kydex to your blade, two layers of tape on the blade make for a good clearance to not mar the finish. Also if you use a scrap piece of rod/pin stock wrapped in tape and taped onto the tip of the blade for a drain hole. It also works to flush the kydex debri out post sanding. Just a thing I did after watching Mr Gough do on his sheaths. He didnt tape his just layed it at the tip of the blade. For me it was just as easy to tape it so I did. Just my .02 ideas.
 
yes it will if you aren't careful. Kydex has to have some notch or bump to hold the knife, like a finger choil for instance.
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This is good advice......listen to it.

Many folks don't plan for kydex when designing/building a knife, but thats exactly what you should be doing. I have folks call/come to my shop all the time, asking if I can build them a kydex sheath for a given knife. Many times I have to turn them down, simply because the knife isn't a good candidate for kydex. Most recently I had a fella come in with a CRKT hunting knife with a molded rubber handle....the only "notch or bump" on it was a "sorta" finger guard molded into the handle.....had I made kydex for it, that finger guard would have gotten torn off the handle eventually, and he would have been ticked.....so after explaining my reasoning, I refused the kydex, and recommended a leather sheath. I guess they guy had his heart set on kydex, because he declined a leather sheath.

Kydex itself won't scratch, BUT, any dirt or grit that gets between the kydex and the blade is going to be just like coarse sandpaper on the blade......which is something else that must be considered when planning for a knife destined for a kydex sheath.
 
my 2 cent,s here i cut out my knife make a kydex sheath then grind & finish so only the very top of blade is snug
 
ED caffrey mMS give good advice if you want to try used find nickel son files at fle markets good steel
 
Thx, John, Walt, and Ed- I'm all ears!
Guess I kind of lost track of this thread for awhile.
IMG_20151213_240758401.jpg
What do you think, Ed? Maybe not a good candidate for Kydex (especially with a mirror finish)? I'm hoping that as I shape the scales, I can at least make the entry/exit a little better. I guess my goal should be to attain good retention, but with minimal wear on the scales or mirror finish? Hopefully as I shape the scales, (keeping what you guys said in mind), I can make the best of it. The knife's owner would really like a Kydex sheath, and it seems to me that Kydex would fit the character of the knife best. And, I will take care to provide a good drain hole and inform the owner of the importance of keeping the sheath clean.
Thanks,
Bill
 
The scales are micarta so it will take a while before they wear down to not catch anymore. Looking good so far.
 
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