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Michael Minto
Guest
Question about blade/guard/butt finishing - particularly on knives with wooden handles, how do you all (if you do) buff the metal parts of a knife without discoloring/ruining the wood? And vice versa. Thanks!
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Personally, I use blue masking/painters tape to tape off individual areas..... for example if buff a handle, I'll carefully tape the guard and/or buttcap, then CAREFULLY buss the handle. Then I'll tape off the handle I just buffed, and do the rest of the knife in that manner. It's helpful to put a coat of was on areas you just buffed before taping..... makes the tape easier to remove.
Another thing I do is choose the materials I use carefully..... I try to stay away from blonde (light colored) handle materials that would pick up polishing compounds. The longer I make knives, it seems the less and less I use a buffer, and the more I depend on fine hand finishing.
Another thing I do is choose the materials I use carefully..... I try to stay away from blonde (light colored) handle materials that would pick up polishing compounds. The longer I make knives, it seems the less and less I use a buffer, and the more I depend on fine hand finishing.
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Michael Minto
Guest
Ed,
Thanks for the reply. You know, I tried the blue tape, and I guess it's the way I was doing it, but the tape would "push away" and get sort of soft/messy - generating too much heat, I guess. Yes, I agree with you about moving towards finer hand sanding - I know a local maker named Bruce Jensky who told me he never uses a buffer, and he hand sands to a true mirror polish. I think I'm gonna have to work on my patience, and go more towards that route
Thanks for the reply. You know, I tried the blue tape, and I guess it's the way I was doing it, but the tape would "push away" and get sort of soft/messy - generating too much heat, I guess. Yes, I agree with you about moving towards finer hand sanding - I know a local maker named Bruce Jensky who told me he never uses a buffer, and he hand sands to a true mirror polish. I think I'm gonna have to work on my patience, and go more towards that route
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
The problem that many have with a buffer is that they don't understand it's limitations. Yes, a buffer with coarse wheels/compound can be used to remove VERY minor scratches, but too many folks try to use a buffer as a "sanding" machine, thinking they can skimp or take short cuts sanding . This line of thinking generally leads to what you described.... trying to buff too hard, and generating lots of heat that causes more problems then it solves.
I do use a buffer for handle material, and is some cases guards, however, with handle material, it's finished down to 1200+ before it ever touches the buffer....and then buffed ONLY just enough to bring out the level of sheen that I desire. When it comes to guards, I use the buffer to give them a high polish, but more often then not go back over the polished guard with a Sandafex hand block for a satin finish.
When using tape to mask off various areas, you just have to be cautious and gentle when buffing near the tape edges..... when you get that "push away", that's your cue that you're going at it too hard.
I do use a buffer for handle material, and is some cases guards, however, with handle material, it's finished down to 1200+ before it ever touches the buffer....and then buffed ONLY just enough to bring out the level of sheen that I desire. When it comes to guards, I use the buffer to give them a high polish, but more often then not go back over the polished guard with a Sandafex hand block for a satin finish.
When using tape to mask off various areas, you just have to be cautious and gentle when buffing near the tape edges..... when you get that "push away", that's your cue that you're going at it too hard.
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Michael Minto
Guest
thanks, ed - gonna use more elbow grease and experiment more