Garry Odgers
Well-Known Member
Beautiful work. Apart from having a ton of skill, I think you must possess even more patience
Matchlock Axe/Pistol
- Thread starter Bruce Bump
- Start date
Steve Culver
Well-Known Member
Oh, man….. That sucks, right there.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I suspected this could be the case. This handle is serving its purpose though, I can continue the build and not fret about tight inlays and modify the parts as needed. I might even step up a notch for my first choice of wood African Blackwood.
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I only show you the good photos, not the ones that have parts flying across the shop.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Some progress on the trigger and trigger housing. The guard is mild steel and the trigger is O-1 tool steel. I used tool steel so I can heat treat it to prevent wearing at the pivots and there may be allot of pressure on the trigger and I cant afford any amount of bending.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/brucebump/matchlock%20axegun/triggerandguard017.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/brucebump/matchlock%20axegun/triggerandguard019.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/brucebump/matchlock%20axegun/triggerandguard017.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/brucebump/matchlock%20axegun/triggerandguard019.jpg
Steven Janik
SUPERMOD & AWARDS BOSS
Bruce,
I put this auxilliary table on my little bandsaw.
It fits right over the small head that was already there. This piece is Corian but is very stable and is easily removeable.
Just thought you'd appreciate this.
Steve
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I do want a smaller bandsaw to do finer work on small parts. Your porta-band looks very handy.
Bruce,
I put this auxilliary table on my little bandsaw.
It fits right over the small head that was already there. This piece is Corian but is very stable and is easily removeable.
Just thought you'd appreciate this.
Steve
View attachment 34447
Roger T
Well-Known Member
A Little Box Progress
Here's a little more progress on Bruce's axe/gun case:
I cut some 1 1/2" cubes of Cherry, mounted them on the lathe, and turned some feet. Then glued in some corner blocks to receive them.
I want to get the hinges mortised in next and then fit and shape the lid. Yesterday the hinges I ordered came in, but they are just too chunky for a box like this - huge barrel and too much gap between the leaves when they're closed. So I ordered different hinges that should be in in a week. One of the drawbacks (though there aren't many) to living in a small rural community. Meanwhile, the box is soaking up some skylight to move the darkening process along.
Here's a little more progress on Bruce's axe/gun case:
I cut some 1 1/2" cubes of Cherry, mounted them on the lathe, and turned some feet. Then glued in some corner blocks to receive them.
I want to get the hinges mortised in next and then fit and shape the lid. Yesterday the hinges I ordered came in, but they are just too chunky for a box like this - huge barrel and too much gap between the leaves when they're closed. So I ordered different hinges that should be in in a week. One of the drawbacks (though there aren't many) to living in a small rural community. Meanwhile, the box is soaking up some skylight to move the darkening process along.
Brad Lilly
Moderator and Awards Boss
I like the finger joints, they really add to the overall look.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I made some progress today with the trigger and linkage. The roughed out serpentine is temporary and needed to decide what curve and pivot placement for the real one. The trigger has less movement than the serpentine does so I had to experiment with a couple hole placement until it opens up all the way and closes all the way. The primer box door may get a separate linkage of its own. I'll cross that bridge when I get there but overall this thing looks like its going to work.
I'm really enjoying the fact i can crudely remove wood to make things work.
I'm really enjoying the fact i can crudely remove wood to make things work.
SteelSlaver
Well-Known Member
Ah, Bruce you are so clever. I thought, what an exposed rod linkage? What a bad idea. Then I saw the link bar and figured out you were just using a simple method to figure out the length of the link which will be inside the cover and the bend in the rod was just a length adjustment. Good thinking.
I have an old muzzle loading single shot pistol that is missing some pieces between the trigger and hammer lock. One day when I am a really grown up knife maker I will try a cut n shoot like my hero.:5:
I have an old muzzle loading single shot pistol that is missing some pieces between the trigger and hammer lock. One day when I am a really grown up knife maker I will try a cut n shoot like my hero.:5:
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
You figured it out. The rod trick is something I learned from working on lawn mowers in my early life. The carburetors all had a governor rod with a loop or bend for length and top rpm adjustment. I wonder if they had lawn mowers in the 16th century?
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SteelSlaver
Well-Known Member
Yes, they were called goats, but, had no wire linkages:biggrin:
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I decided on an internal return spring and found the natural place to put it. The advantages a coil spring is the diameter and length can be changed to tune the trigger pull when the time comes.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I ran across an old "slow match" that I made several years ago. It is simply a cotton cord that was soaked in salt peter and let dry. This is the igniting material for a matchlock igntion system. Simply light the end of the cord and it glows. Its a nice hot slow burning punk-like heat source. Wow does it ever stink and smoke indoors. Anyway, I made a small pile of Pyrodex and lit it off just as the camera went off. Lucky shot and a cool picture. This really burns hot and should have no trouble traveling the 1/4" distance through the .072" hole to the main charge in the barrel.
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Thats a good question BRad and I'm still scratching my head on this subject. The original intent is to have a light weight spring keep it closed and the dragon will open it with its face but now it looks like a linkage is more likely. It needs to stay closed until the match travel begins to prevent any sort of pre-ignition.The primer box lid isnt designed yet so it can have an extention and rod attachment to the dragon. Manual opening will take an extra hand to fire this thing. Not very convenient and not my first choice but I'm not ruling it out just yet.
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Dana Hackney
Well-Known Member
My gosh!
Who is that dude in the last picture? Is that my good buddy Bruce Bump?! Pretty soon you're going to have to braid that
lock of whiskers to keep it out of the way when you grind and forge!
Say, that unit is coming right along. I can't wait to see the carved hammer mechanism.
Dana
Who is that dude in the last picture? Is that my good buddy Bruce Bump?! Pretty soon you're going to have to braid that
lock of whiskers to keep it out of the way when you grind and forge!
Say, that unit is coming right along. I can't wait to see the carved hammer mechanism
.Dana
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Hey Bro, thats me with my favorite T shirt on. Thinking about a transfer to the top of my head. hehe
Who is that dude in the last picture? Is that my good buddy Bruce Bump?! Pretty soon you're going to have to braid that
lock of whiskers to keep it out of the way when you grind and forge!
Say, that unit is coming right along. I can't wait to see the carved hammer mechanism
Dana