Makers Mark Stencils Comparison

KenH said:
The current drawn by the etching process depends on the amount of open space on the stencil, as well as voltage. You're right about the "off-gassing", the pad has to be removed every few seconds to allow the built up gas to be released, and this allows for cooling of the stencil. Properly done the IMG stencils should last well over 100 etches. Of course cleaning between etches is important also.

When the etch is completed a darkish color will be seen in the design (open) part of the stencil. This is the oxides deposited during the darkening portion (last part of etch). Turning the stencil over and a few seconds of DC etch will remove the oxides nicely leaving the design clean. As said before the stencil needs to be cleaned in a cleaning solution (soapy water, windex, etc) then stored in dark.
Click to expand...

Great Explanation, thanks!
 
What do you use to get the sticky residue off the stencil that the tape leaves? Ive tried Windex and soapy water, and it doesn't remove it. I go back and forth between painters tape and electrical tape. I haven't figured out which one I like best
 
Brad Walker said:
What do you use to get the sticky residue off the stencil that the tape leaves? Ive tried Windex and soapy water, and it doesn't remove it. I go back and forth between painters tape and electrical tape. I haven't figured out which one I like best.
Click to expand...
You might try regular old "Scotch tape" aka Magic Mending Tape. No residue. Works great.
 
Can I ask what format you sent your artwork in? My experience getting a stencil made using Martronics (echo-matic), was fine. I emailed them a word Doc with stencil art copy/Pasted in 2 sizes and also the Photoshop files; and I believe that they simply burned a sheet of stencils from the word document, the cost was $49 if I remember right. The quality seems good, but this is my first experience with etching blades, I use a small handheld unit from LectroEtch.
Always looking to do better!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2048.JPG
    IMG_2048.JPG
    1.8 MB · Views: 10
thomster said:
Can I ask what format you sent your artwork in? My experience getting a stencil made using Martronics (echo-matic), was fine. I emailed them a word Doc with stencil art copy/Pasted in 2 sizes and also the Photoshop files; and I believe that they simply burned a sheet of stencils from the word document, the cost was $49 if I remember right. The quality seems good, but this is my first experience with etching blades, I use a small handheld unit from LectroEtch.
Always looking to do better!
Click to expand...

I sent Word document files. Then the companies send me back samples to ensure the size was right.
 
Bo is Ernie Grospitch's son, I'm guessing. I did not know until recently that he had taken over the Blue Lightning stencil side of the biz. He has by files on hand, so when I finally order against, I will go to him. I have been pleased with the previous stencils. I have had three different ones, each one more detailed than the previous. I sent some artwork last time to Ernie that a graphic artist had helped me copy/refine some stock line drawing images. Ernie actually changed it a tiny bit so that it would etch better.
 
Brad Walker said:
What do you use to get the sticky residue off the stencil that the tape leaves? Ive tried Windex and soapy water, and it doesn't remove it. I go back and forth between painters tape and electrical tape. I haven't figured out which one I like best
Click to expand...
Doesn't really matter. I use electrical tape, but I don't lift and peek while I am etching. For that, you apparently need several pieces of tape on the "hinge" side. I secure top and bottom.
 
So I started with a new stencil a few weeks ago. I am very careful pulling off the tape and clean it thoroughly after each use. I just used it for the 10th time and it still looks as good as it did when I started with it.
 
Another option is to get a vinyl printer. I have a Silhouette. It cuts out the vinyl in any shape, lettering, etc. that you put into the design software. Then you just stick it on the knife and start etching. Peel off the sticker and you're done.

This lets me put not only my maker's mark but also logos, initials, designs, etc. Some makers go a little wild with it, I tend to keep it pretty subdued.
 
During the DC portion of etch there are black oxides deposited in the image portion of the stencil. Connect the red lead to a small conductive metal plate. Lay the topside of the stencil down on metal plate, with etcher on DC, do a 2 or 3 second etch again. This will remove the black oxides there were deposited during the DC portion of the blade etch.

I've written the above 3 different ways and none are very clear after I go back and read again. Hopefully what I'm trying to say is understandable.
 
KenH said:
During the DC portion of etch there are black oxides deposited in the image portion of the stencil. Connect the red lead to a small conductive metal plate. Lay the topside of the stencil down on metal plate, with etcher on DC, do a 2 or 3 second etch again. This will remove the black oxides there were deposited during the DC portion of the blade etch.

I've written the above 3 different ways and none are very clear after I go back and read again. Hopefully what I'm trying to say is understandable.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I understand, that's very helpful. Gotta try that technique.
 
chrisstaniar said:
Another option is to get a vinyl printer. I have a Silhouette. It cuts out the vinyl in any shape, lettering, etc. that you put into the design software. Then you just stick it on the knife and start etching. Peel off the sticker and you're done.

This lets me put not only my maker's mark but also logos, initials, designs, etc. Some makers go a little wild with it, I tend to keep it pretty subdued.
Click to expand...
Chris, how small/detailed is the Silhouette capable of going?
-Mark
 
chrisstaniar said:
nother option is to get a vinyl printer. I have a Silhouette. It cuts out the vinyl in any shape, lettering, etc. that you put into the design software. Then you just stick it on the knife and start etching. Peel off the sticker and you're done.

This lets me put not only my maker's mark but also logos, initials, designs, etc. Some makers go a little wild with it, I tend to keep it pretty subdued.
Click to expand...
Man I'm interested. I'd love to hear more!
 
Pretty detailed, the only issue can be if the really small details have loops, intersect, etc. I've done logos with deer antlers, bear's paw, letters, etc. There is a bit of a learning curve getting the vinyl material matched to the cutting parameters but it's just trial and error.
 
Do you think the small CriCut Joy or CriCut Explore Air would work to cut out a basic logo? I want to do my initials and have the ability to print off different steel names and stuff. I would probably do 1/8" tall letters at the smallest?
 
Taz575 said:
Do you think the small CriCut Joy or CriCut Explore Air would work to cut out a basic logo? I want to do my initials and have the ability to print off different steel names and stuff. I would probably do 1/8" tall letters at the smallest?
Click to expand...

I haven't used either of those so I can't really say. A lot would depend on how detailed your logo is and how small those details are. For initials, you would need to consider the font type used. Small "scrolly" letters could pose a problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top