Maker's Mark Stamp

[Gliden07]

I did similar but I think getting the stencil straight is very hard for me. My thoughts behind all of this is that I think it would be easier for me to make a jig that would get it perfect (close lol) every time than taping the stencil right. That’s the real issue and motivation behind my post. @Ty Adams i should’ve explained myself better.

Huh? I thought that was he easy part? I take the clear one that Ernie sends drop it on to see where I might want it then just tape the stencil down to do the etch. I dont fuss to much with it. I think mine come out good.

 

[Ty Adams]

I don't know if this will help you Kevin, but here's how I keep my logo straight. The bottom of the letters in my stencil are straight and square. I line them up with top of the blade where I want the logo in relation to the plunge line.

While it's nice and square I pull it down to where I want it on the blade.

Now with the other hand lay down a piece of tape to hold it in place.

Then just tape around the stencil.

 

[bladegrinder]

I use a Henry Evers stamp too Kevin, here's a few pictures of what I use. there's one pic with a heat treated blade in the fixture, that's just for the picture....hit that blade and you'd ruin the stamp.
the blades are CPM-154.

 

[Kevin Zito]

I don't know if this will help you Kevin, but here's how I keep my logo straight. The bottom of the letters in my stencil are straight and square. I line them up with top of the blade where I want the logo in relation to the plunge line.
View attachment 65619
While it's nice and square I pull it down to where I want it on the blade.
View attachment 65620
Now with the other hand lay down a piece of tape to hold it in place.
View attachment 65621
Then just tape around the stencil.
View attachment 65622

I need to try with good stencils ... prob a difference maker... thanks!

 

[EdCaffreyMS]

When I first started etching my mark on folders (stamps on folder blades always caused major problems for me) I had no idea just how important quality stencils were/are. I was having all sorts of troubles with etching, before another maker explained the stencil quality thing to me..... and once he convinced me, and I went with quality stencils, the majority of my etched mark woes went away. Of the two marking methods (stamps versus etched), I've come to realize that etched marks present the most variables to overcome for me....but as with most problems knife related, I learned to work through them.

 

[C. Killgore]

I'm with Kevin on this one. I started off etching and it didn't take long for me to get frustrated with it. I really wanted my etch to be deep, like a stamp. I did achieve some really nice deep etches but it seemed like I was burning through stencils with the amount of power I was running into it. Not to mention, I always had some line somewhere at the edge of the tape/stencil that got partially etched or discolored. I would usually go back and re-hand sand the blade aftewards.

Since I forge my blades, it seemed natural to hot stamp. I picked up a stamp from henry evers and made a tool based on Ed Caffreys that was pictured on his web page discussing the stamps. I stamp just before heat treat. I've been very pleased with the results and really enjoy not having to fiddle with the etching process, though I'm sure I'll find a case in which I'll need to use it at some point.

 

[Kevin Zito]

I use a Henry Evers stamp too Kevin, here's a few pictures of what I use. there's one pic with a heat treated blade in the fixture, that's just for the picture....hit that blade and you'd ruin the stamp.
the blades are CPM-154.

That looks great.... super super clean!