LINERLOCK - WIP

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
How thick was this liner? I assume it was Ti but it's hard to tell.
I have used a bending jig, bending crick (small arc radius to bend around), pliars and just hand bending it. I went back to heating it up and bending in a gentle radius. You have to clean things up from the heat but it doesn't take long to sand off the heat anno.

Great WIP. Thanks for posting it.
t


Bending the lock bar using a piece of wood with slot cut into it. I used this method to try and get a more gradual bend along the lock bar rather than applying heat to the back end and bending in one spot. I am really not sure which is the best way to do this so if anyone has some advice I would love to hear it.

View attachment 67571
 

IanF

Well-Known Member
How thick was this liner? I assume it was Ti but it's hard to tell.
I have used a bending jig, bending crick (small arc radius to bend around), pliars and just hand bending it. I went back to heating it up and bending in a gentle radius. You have to clean things up from the heat but it doesn't take long to sand off the heat anno.

Great WIP. Thanks for posting it.
t
Thanks Tracey

The Ti liner is 0.06 (from USA knifemaker) and I tend to agree with your method - heating and bending seems to produce a nicer result. Thanks for your input!
 

Aikenn

Active Member
My blades are back from heat treatment and I found some time yesterday to work on my folder. I have three to complete but am working on just one now through to the end and hope the mistakes I make on this one will result in the others being better!

Liners were marked out and cut on the bandsaw. Green G10 is my chosen colour for this one and I quite like it.



I bought these clamps recently and I think they are going to be very handy for drilling operations.



I drilled the handle screw holes first and mounted the scales to liners with screws before drilling the pivot holes. The holes were countersunk for screw heads and once attached the back side where screws protrude are ground flat.



I used the grinder to bring the scale thickness down using a 120 grit belt first and then 240 to get close to final dimensions. Slack belt with 240grit worked well.



So this is where I ended up.



So next steps to finish handles are:
Shorten stop pin (slightly long at moment)
Reduce thickness of back spacer to final thickness
Going finger groove in face liner to access lock bar
Detent ball needs seating slightly lower
Finish scales all around liners
Re-countersink screw and pivot holes
Refinish screw length on inside of liners
Grind pivot to length
Flame lock bar face to try and get a smoother contact face
Sand blast liner

Then I can move onto grinding the blade.....
You have an incredible post here thanks
 

Aikenn

Active Member
I’ve just change the title of this thread - I had it as a framelock but it is a liner lock - sorry if I caused any confusion.
Hello thanks for your work I also have a strong interest and have read and watched a lot of vids. I have some questions and most of the time when you ask others you get no reply. I just ques they are too busy or just can not be bothered. I hope to follow your journey.
 

Aikenn

Active Member
Now it’s time to cut the lock bar. Set my drill press to highest speed it can go and using a metal cutting disc I was able to cut a decent slot with the liner held in drill press vice. These are much better than the dremel version I used previously - I could cut a couple of locks with one disc I think.

I have also drilled hole for the 2mm ceramic detent ball to sit in by the time I took the photo.

View attachment 67570

Bending the lock bar using a piece of wood with slot cut into it. I used this method to try and get a more gradual bend along the lock bar rather than applying heat to the back end and bending in one spot. I am really not sure which is the best way to do this so if anyone has some advice I would love to hear it.

View attachment 67571

And the result

View attachment 67572
How did you set the angle on the lock bar and have you set the angle on the blade????
 

Aikenn

Active Member
how did you set your angles on the blades and on the lock bar. What equipment and fixtures?? On the blades was the angle set before or after heat treatment??
 

IanF

Well-Known Member
Hey Aikenn

Thanks for your interest in my folder and workflow. For the angle on the liner lock face I used a kind of jig setup I guess where I was able to hold the liner against a piece of angle and then using a piece of micarta stuck behind the lock I could hold it out at an angle and grind on the flat platten. Very hard to describe so I’ll try to get a photo for you.

The angle on the back of the blade was set by adjusting the flat platten to be on an angle compared to the work rest. So instead of the work rest being ata normal 90 degrees I lessened the angle by 8.5 so it is 82.5 degrees. This works easily if you can adjust your platten or work rest. Otherwise you could just make a wedge shaped rest to place on your work rest that presents the back of the blade to the belt at the desired angle.

I hope that makes some kind of sense?
 

Aikenn

Active Member
Yea the blade appears to be the easier of the two I though I would just grind or mill a block of aluminum on the angle But the liner appears to be a bugger.. Any pictures would be helpful.....I even though when model was complete and tweek to fit milling or grinding the angle on the blade AFTER heat threat..... But again the liner is another whole animal..
Also materials used NOT the blade but what are the other materials used for both liners ???? 410 , 416 SS Titanium or I have heard of 15n20?????
What are your preferences???????
 

IanF

Well-Known Member
Hi Aikenn

Here are some pics of my setup - here I am working on a framelock but the linerlock is exactly the same (only thinner).

The block I attach the liner too is shown here and you can see I have already bent the lock bar.36584D92-F698-4D0C-A6AD-182F0DF66183.jpeg

Then I use a piece of G10 clamped to me work rest to present the face of the lockbar at my desired angle. Here is how I set it up.
69605

And this is what it looks like when grinding
69606
 

IanF

Well-Known Member
For both liners I use titanium (6AL-4v) and the scales are G10 but of course micarta, wood or any of the other handle materials could be used.
 
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