Leather Sheath WIP help

Mark Barone

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
I added 10 mm around the blade template to accommodate the welt. I feel I am going to have a snag near that ricasso area where my pencil is pointing to. If it's not too much trouble I wouldn't mind if somebody drew on the drawing about the shape it should be in that area. Should I bring it out a little more in that area. See any other issues?
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Retroguy said:
I added 10 mm around the blade template to accommodate the welt. I feel I am going to have a snag near that ricasso area where my pencil is pointing to. If it's not too much trouble I wouldn't mind if somebody drew on the drawing about the shape it should be in that area. Should I bring it out a little more in that area. See any other issues?
View attachment 68064
Click to expand...

This is a good start, but the welt doesn’t need to be that exact. The 10mm is to ensure you have enough overlap to wrap around the knife and still get a good, flat seam that can be sewn. The welt will float in/out as needed to close that seam based on leather thickness. (Thicker leather needs to be longer to reach around the knife and make a flat seam. The placement of the welt helps determine how tight the sheath will be by moving it closer to the knife or farther away. You will find a happy place.

Having said all that- now you can see that there is no need for the welt to perfectly mirror the knife. It’s just a spacer that also serves to keep the sharp blade from cutting the stitching in the seam. The retention of the knife is provided by the pressed sandwich effect of the sheath and the friction of that leather on the sides of the handle, not by interference of the welt.
 
John Wilson said:
This is a good start, but the welt doesn’t need to be that exact. The 10mm is to ensure you have enough overlap to wrap around the knife and still get a good, flat seam that can be sewn. The welt will float in/out as needed to close that seam based on leather thickness. (Thicker leather needs to be longer to reach around the knife and make a flat seam. The placement of the welt helps determine how tight the sheath will be by moving it closer to the knife or farther away. You will find a happy place.

Having said all that- now you can see that there is no need for the welt to perfectly mirror the knife. It’s just a spacer that also serves to keep the sharp blade from cutting the stitching in the seam. The retention of the knife is provided by the pressed sandwich effect of the sheath and the friction of that leather on the sides of the handle, not by interference of the welt.
Click to expand...

Ok copy that. I will probably still draw another one and add to this thread.
 
I folded, glued and clamped the Sheath. I am at the stage where I think I am suppose to shape/sand following the welt area prior to stitching. There is very little shaping to do but I notice people seem to do it on the belt sander. Is that correct? IF so , which grit? I would use a new belt!!

IMG_3889.jpgIMG_3890.jpg
 
Yes, you want to sand both sides and the welt so their even, I use a 50 grit myself. go easy so you don't burn it.
be careful using black dye, the pigment likes to stay on top. be sure to rub it good with some towels to get the pigment off the surface.
 
Was I suppose to protect it with a wax before I folded it. What product do I use to make it a bit glossy and protect it?
 
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