Leather Finishing - Oiling

SC_Knives

Well-Known Member
I'm looking for some feedback and opinions on types of leather finish. Currently, I am using 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil and Saddle Butter and I am happy with the results, just curious if there is something out there that might be better...

What do you like to use for finishing your leather goods?


Thanks in advanced - Cory
 
I use Snow Seal. I heat up the sheath with a blow dryer and soak it in both outside and inside until it won't take anymore. It will be a little messy on the knife for awhile, but I believe it does a better job of protecting it from the elements and also protects the knife better. I have one knife with a 5160 blade that stays stored in its sheath with no problems
 
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The following are MY opinions based on MY experience, and are not intended to agree or disagree with anyone else's methods.

1. I don't ever dip a sheath in anything. Apply Pure Neatsfoot oil sparingly, and since I fully line everything it is exterior only. Too much oil will clog the leather and make it unable to breathe.
2. After the oil has leveled I apply once again sparingly Feibling's TanKote, similar to BagKote mentioned above.
3. When that is dry I apply NeatLac (Wyosheen) also similar to SaddleLac, but not the spray on version.

I have always wondered about the use of Snow Seal, Bee's Wax, and all the other products intended to "waterproof" a sheath, particularly the inside. Question: Why would you work so hard to intentionally make a vessel that would hold water out of your sheath? If you are submerged in water, or rained on for a long time or whatever, I guarantee your "waterproofed" sheath is going to be wet and will have to be slow dried using the same time and methods as if it had not been "waterproofed". The big disadvantage is you have clogged the leather with foreign material and it will inhibit it's ability to dry naturally and thoroughly because it can not breathe. It is also like a magnet for dirt and grime.


The use of a hair dryer will, in fact, speed up the absorption rate and leveling of the Neatsfoot Oil, It will also help to stiffen the sheath which is a good thing. The Hair Dryer needs to be put away after the Neatsfoot application step.


What I have stated here is my method. If yours is better, by all means use it.

Paul
 
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You bring up some good points that I hadn't considered and different perspective that is much appreciated.
In using the Snow Seal/beeswax, I figured it gives the leather a little more protection from moisture but I wouldn't have any delusions that the sheath is then absolutely 'waterproof'. Also, the leather is still able to 'breath', albeit the moisture transfer will be slower (in and out). In my experince in using SS, primarily on footwear, I don't think it dries out much more slowly than leather treated otherwise. Watersoaked leather is a pain regardless of the finishing treatment.
You are correct in that excess wax could attract/hold dirt and grime, but once it's used a bit, and any excess wax is gone, it hasn't been an issue.
Your experience and expertise are way beyond what I'll ever achieve, so please don't feel that I was implying that my method is better or the best, it is just what has worked for me.
 
I use the same method as firecog with the exception that I leave a small gap at the bottom of my welt so it will drain and allow grit and stuff to filter out over time.

My logic is that I am trying to preserve the leather. If it all gets wet, no matter what you do it needs to be dried out properly. Nothing is going to stop that really...

MHO only.
 
I use the same method as firecog with the exception that I leave a small gap at the bottom of my welt so it will drain and allow grit and stuff to filter out over time.
Thanks for the reminder. I allow a gap as well. As a bonus, you can use smaller scraps for the welt.
 
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