Knife #12 -- For a Hunter

Mike Jones

Google Master
I finished today a knife for my friend who hunts. He gave me an idea of what he wanted in a knife, so I based it around his idea of a good all around skinning knife. This is the first knife that is leaving my family, so he can test it and let me know how it works.

1084 steel
3.5" blade
7.625" Overall length
JatMat's G11 with stainless steel pins/lanyard tube

I messed up a plunge line with a groove on one side from a file, and I probably thinned it out too much, since you can see a couple of the weight-removing holes through the G11.

As always with my knives, criticize away.

Josh Dabney


A very useful design for a general field dressing knife. It wouldn't be my personal preferance for a dedicated skinner but really all you need is a good sharp knife to get the job done.

I will make a few comments/suggestions.

Plunges- It looks to me like you've got your blade ground to the point where a J-flex would be in order to clean up the plunges. Even if you use your file to "set" the plunges and want to stay away from there with your rough belts it'll be ok to use a worn 220 or fresh 400 to grind the plunges nice and even. You've got enough of a "shelf" on the plunges to help the J-flex wrap around the platen. When doing my plunge adjustments I have the blade against the belt but really no pressure against the bevel. The pressure is more of a left or right pressure to get the tiny sliver of belt thats wrapped around the platen to grind the plunge.

I think your definately on the right track ! Time to begin working at the next step in your grinding evolution :)

I like to peen my pins also. I see no reason not to as it can only add to the strength of the handle attachment, IMO.

I think makers kinda feel out their own way to get a good result.

I like to epoxy one slab on and drill my pin holes, then epoxy on the second side and drill through from the first side.

I do this before doing any shaping on the handle material other than roughly cutting it to the shape of the tang.

Now I'll shape the handles to 95% WITHOUT the pins in.

Now epoxy pins in and peen while epoxy is still wet. I upset the pin by hitting it with the flat part of the hammer on both sides to expand the pin and fill the hole. Then I'll go back over and peen around the perimeter of the pin "head" till it looks like a mushroom.

Now the pin should fully fill the hole so when you final shape the handle on the grinder it will remove the mushroom and leave a nice round peened pin.

I've never used that G-10 although I've got some. I would guess that using a fiber liner would take care of seeing the holes through the handle material.

I think your comming right along buddy ! I also think it's time to start thinking about working on a more refined finish on your handles and blades.



Mike you have come a long ways. You see what is weak points and you are looking to improve. YOU sir are ahead it the game so to speak. Josh is right, you have come along ways and it is time to step up and get after it. I have enjoyed watching your progress and can't wait till I can get one from you now and in a couple of years get one and lay them side by side.

Tod Lowe

Well-Known Member
It looks like the drawing of it you posted in Ernies thread. Thats good!
It does have a few cosmetic issues but those will be resolved on future knives as you take more time and your process gets better. It looks like a great user.

About the plunge lines. Im sure you have heard not to use jigs and do it all free hand. I do most of mine free hand except I now use a jig I made for the plunge lines and here is why.
I have seen your grinder and I have a nwg which runs great but it is not 100 percent free of wobble and the plunge lines will show even a slight wobble.
By wobble I mean just the slightest movement side to side of the belt. Its hard to even see by just looking sometimes.
Did you use your disc sander on the flats of this knife?

Mike Jones

Google Master
Thanks Josh, I'll try those techniques on my next knife.

James, Thanks for the encouragement!

Shankmaker, I did most of the blade on the disc, so flats and the grind also. What kind of jig are you talking about? I made a simple mild-steel screw on guide that could work for a little bit before needing to be replaced, but that was mostly so I just started my grind at the same spot each pass, and on the opposite side.