KMG upgrades
- Thread starter Jon Kelly
- Start date
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Hi Jon!
You remember my platen? 1 1/2" contact wheel at the top, and 3" contact wheel at the bottom? If you're going to do it, I would recommend replacing both the upper and lower with contact wheels (of your chosen sizes). Personally, I noticed a significant difference when I went from those aluminum wheels to actual contact wheels.
You remember my platen? 1 1/2" contact wheel at the top, and 3" contact wheel at the bottom? If you're going to do it, I would recommend replacing both the upper and lower with contact wheels (of your chosen sizes). Personally, I noticed a significant difference when I went from those aluminum wheels to actual contact wheels.
Frank Niro
KNIFE MAKER
I've been using the contact wheels forever top and bottom of my platen. Be aware that they do wear out but its not regular enough to aggravate me since I fing the top one to be particularly useful.
Frank
Frank
Ed, if I remember correctly you had an entirely different platen that you designed yourself. Is there any advantage to using different sizes of contact wheel as you have done, other than allowing for different radius's on each wheel? I already have the small wheel attachment and a few wheels for the really small inside curves.
Thank you Frank for your valuable input as well.
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Other then allowing for the different radius each wheel provides, the reason I went with the sizes I did was because it "fit" my knifemaking style....by that I mean that whenever I cut a radius at the bottom of a ricasso (to allow for "Choking up" on a knife) the 1 1/2" radius is what I like. The reason I went with the 3" at the bottom is because thats the radius I like on the "heel" at the bottom of most hunter sized knives.
Although I did design/build a "special" platen arm, its not really necessary. You can use different sized contact wheels at the top and bottom of the stock KMG platen..... you just have to rotate the platen a bit if you want the belt to run vertical across the platen. Possibly the only thing you MIGHT want to do, based on how small you go with contact wheel size, is to "trim" around that particular mounting hole so you have better/complete access to that contact wheel.
Just a quick note on contact wheels. I've come to like the Urethane wheels much better then rubber ones...... they last MUCH longer, and just seem to be overall "tougher" then rubber. The only drawback with them is that SunRay Inc (where I purchase the majority of my contact wheels) doesn't keep them in stock, but rather makes them to order. That means you have to wait, generally 4-6 weeks for your contact wheels to ship. ALTHOUGH.... I think I do remember seeing urethane wheels on USA Knifemaker.... so you could check there too.
Although I did design/build a "special" platen arm, its not really necessary. You can use different sized contact wheels at the top and bottom of the stock KMG platen..... you just have to rotate the platen a bit if you want the belt to run vertical across the platen. Possibly the only thing you MIGHT want to do, based on how small you go with contact wheel size, is to "trim" around that particular mounting hole so you have better/complete access to that contact wheel.
Just a quick note on contact wheels. I've come to like the Urethane wheels much better then rubber ones...... they last MUCH longer, and just seem to be overall "tougher" then rubber. The only drawback with them is that SunRay Inc (where I purchase the majority of my contact wheels) doesn't keep them in stock, but rather makes them to order. That means you have to wait, generally 4-6 weeks for your contact wheels to ship. ALTHOUGH.... I think I do remember seeing urethane wheels on USA Knifemaker.... so you could check there too.