Is a forged folder practical?

Eddie Mullins

Eddie Mullins

Well-Known Member
I am about ready to make my first folder and am at a bit of a quandary. I'd love to forge the blade, but because of the exacting tolerance for blade and spring, I'm not sure its practical due to the material which will be lost for scale removal, etc. I don't have a mill or surface grinder so am wondering if its feasible to get the uniform thickness needed by hand, or stock removal is the better option? If so, then I need an option/recommendation for 1/8" steel, as 5160, my current and only steel to have used, is not available less than .2" .
 
Just curious as I am not the most qualified but what kind is it a friction type folder your making. Ive been wanting to make one of the older style ones. I think you could do it although it would be easier to start with thinner stock. Would be a good test of your forging ability I imagine.
 
however you shape the blade initially, you WILL have to finish by grinding your parts to a flat surface with uniform thickness.

That said, I don't believe there is any practical advantage to forging a small folder over just buying some flat stock that's already close to thickess. You could even start with some precision ground stock, and remove most of your need for surface grinder.

You could probably even get away with a piece of sand paper on a granite surface block to "surface grind" by hand.
 
Eddie, I have forged a friction folder out of a round car torsion spring, which I believe was 5160, there was about the same amount of grinding as I would a fixie, just it was a little harder to hold on to. As long as you keep the pivot- part of the blade square and flat while you grind, you should not have a problem! this is how mine turned out, the pictures not that great, but the knife is still going strong!

friction folder.jpg
 
Sweany said:
Here's how they did it in Sheffield.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpeyhC-UIFg
Click to expand...

I have watched that video many times since I first found it almost a year ago. His technique and skill are just inspiring. I also have been really intrigued by his anvil and tooling.

I also noted he started with thin material of his desired thickness. I may not have properly stated my question in the first post. My 5160 is all 3/8" thick or more so I will have to also thin it as I shape it which I enjoy and works well for fixed blades. I plan to go ahead and get some 3/32" and/or 1/8" O1, and may attempt to profile the blade at the forge, but will probably stick to stock removal for the tang and spring. I still haven't given up on resizing thick material though and have an idea or two I am batting around.
 
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