If a hole is off a little!!!

Mark Barone

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
When a hole for a pin it's off a little. So now one way of fixing it, I am assuming, is to make that hole an oval and make sure epoxy fills the gap. FIrst , would folks continue with the knife or scrap it. So how do I make the oval. It seems when I tried to drill a hole really close, the bit would follow the other hole, I finally did it but it was an ordeal.
 
You could use a rotary tool with a carbide burr to change the shape of the hole in the tang. If it's in the scales it would probably be better to make the scales over.

Doug
 
Or you could make it larger then countersink each side, insert a pin, peen it into the countersink, clean up the surface, then redrill the hole. in the correct place
 
You'll never be able to drill a 1/2 hole into an existing hole.

You'll need to have material under the entire drill. You can't drill if 1/2 the bit is spinning in the air over the existing hole.

It can be done with a mill and an endmill.

Von Gruff explained exactly how to do it if you need to move the hole over.

In this case though, elongating the hole with dremel will work fine. As long as it doesn't show.
 
If the blade hasn’t been heat treated yet, just drill the hole out large enough that the pin goes through and the scales line up like they’re supposed to. Having a big hole won’t matter. The other pin hole is in the right place and sized for the pin. The scales can’t go anywhere once epoxied.
 
John Wilson said:
If the blade hasn’t been heat treated yet, just drill the hole out large enough that the pin goes through and the scales line up like they’re supposed to. Having a big hole won’t matter. The other pin hole is in the right place and sized for the pin. The scales can’t go anywhere once epoxied.
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This is probably the quickest and easiest fix
 
Lots of great ideas. Now I'm wondering if I fill it with 5 minute epoxy, will that give the bit something to ride on to drill a new hole? I am probably just going to dremel it out.
 
Justin W. said:
I'm like 99% sure you are some sort of knife making wizard :D
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Just passing on what is a good fix for that particular problem Justin. The pin is there for sheer strength rather than hold down strength although it odes that as well unless you are using corby bolts or similar
 
Retroguy said:
Lots of great ideas. Now I'm wondering if I fill it with 5 minute epoxy, will that give the bit something to ride on to drill a new hole? I am probably just going to dremel it out.
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The epoxy wont hold the drill bit centered against the steel trying to deflect the drill bit to the softer epoxy
 
Retroguy said:
Lots of great ideas. Now I'm wondering if I fill it with 5 minute epoxy, will that give the bit something to ride on to drill a new hole? I am probably just going to dremel it out.
Click to expand...

Use JB Weld. You can drill and tap it. C-sink both sides of the hole then fill it with JB weld. File it flat. Drill your pin hole where you want it in the tang. Then transfer the holes as you would do normally. Good luck!
 
springer82 said:
Use JB Weld. You can drill and tap it. C-sink both sides of the hole then fill it with JB weld. File it flat. Drill your pin hole where you want it in the tang. Then transfer the holes as you would do normally. Good luck!
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I will try it. Thanks.
 
Well it doesn’t matter, I ruined the blade. I had a perfect bevel on both sides at 220. I then
was doing the flats and all hell broke loose. I ruined the line and then went back and forth until I had to give up on it. Another lessened learned. Does anybody do the flats first then do the bevel? Again I have sand with my on the machine do to an old shoulder injury.
 
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I ALWAYS get my flats done first and then try like hell not to scratch them after that as I’m doing bevels.

Doing flats after the bevels will alter your plunges on the bevels. Then you really pull your hair out trying to get both sides the same before you grind the blade to dust.
 
John Wilson said:
I ALWAYS get my flats done first and then try like hell not to scratch them after that as I’m doing bevels.

Doing flats after the bevels will alter your plunges on the bevels. Then you really pull your hair out trying to get both sides the same before you grind the blade to dust.
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I think for the equipment I have and my history of the same mistake , I’m going to try that method. What could go wrong ?
 
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